I always get a bit nervous before a big move. Funny, considering how frequently I have made big moves. To quell my nervousness, I make detailed plans for my trip, and print out my itineraries so I don’t get confused.
Right now, I am planning a weekend trip to Montego Bay (8/1 to 8/4), a trip to Miami (8/6) for my husband and three kids while I travel to San Francisco for a conference (8/6 to 8/12), and our subsequent move to Guatemala (8/13).
We are leaving for Montego Bay Saturday morning. We will spend two nights there. The main purpose of the trip is to find housing for next summer, when we will be in Montego Bay for three months. However, we also plan to enjoy the beach! Apart from the four hour bus ride on the Knutsford Express, that should be an enjoyable weekend. Plus, I bought some motion sickness medicine for the kids, as they tend to get car sick on long trips.
We come back from Montego Bay on Monday night. That leaves us just two full days to clear out our apartment and be ready to leave the house at 5:30 am on Thursday for our flight to Miami. I will be leaving my husband and the three kids in Miami while I fly out to San Francisco for a conference. They will travel to Guatemala on Sunday, and I will get there on Thursday, August the 18th.
It took me quite a while, but I think I have it all planned out. I made up a document for my husband that details his hotel and flight in Miami, as well as the instructions for what to do when he arrives in Guatemala. I also wrote up a letter that gives him permission to take the kids out of the country. I just need to get it notarized, and he should be fine. (Once, he didn’t have the letter, and he almost didn’t make it out of Peru!)
Planning my trip to San Francisco was actually more complicated. In an attempt to save money, I ended up booking three separate hotels. I get into SFO at 9pm on Thursday. So, I booked a hotel close to the airport with an airport shuttle for the first night. This means I will be taking my carry-on to my meetings with me on Friday. From there, I can get public transportation to my next hotel, which is downtown by the meetings. I will stay in that hotel until my last night, when I will take the BART back out to a hotel by the airport, which also has a shuttle to get me to the airport for my noon flight out on Wednesday.
I am hoping that my plan to save money by sleeping in cheap hotels by the airport with shuttles the first and last night of my stay will be worth it. I can imagine all kinds of things going wrong, like the shuttle never showing up. But, for now, I will proceed with the confidence that it will work as smoothly as I have planned.
After a six hour direct flight from SFO, I arrive in Miami at 9:30pm Wednesday evening. There, I have also booked a hotel with an airport shuttle, as I will spend the night in Miami. My flight out on Thursday morning is from Fort Lauderdale. So, I plan to take the shuttle back to the airport, and then take the Tri-Rail to FLL for my flight to Guatemala. Again, I hope this money-saving, airport shuttle plus public transportation plan actually works.
I also hope that the apartment I found online in Guatemala is as nice as it looks in the pictures, and that my research in Guatemala goes as smoothly as my research has here in Jamaica.
For now, I need to stop hoping and worrying and get packed for our trip to Montego Bay tomorrow!
Plans, Packing, Airport Shuttles, and Public Transportation
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budget travel,
Guatemala,
travel with kids
Ocho Rios and Dolphin Cove
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deportees,
Jamaica,
travel with kids
Nando and I have always gone out of our way to avoid tourist traps. Our idea of an ideal vacation includes a lot more mountains, palm trees, rivers, and isolated beaches and a lot less people, shopping malls, and theme parks than you find at Ocho Rios.
We decided to spend the weekend at Ocho Rios because I had some interviews with deportees there, and because it is only two hours from Kingston. When we first arrived, I was not impressed. The beach was too small and the buildings too high for my liking. However, once I gave in to the fact that we had to appreciate Ocho Rios for what it is, I was able to enjoy myself.
Ocho Rios may once have been acclaimed for its natural beauty. Today, however, its claim to fame is more the variety of activities designed to attract tourists – theme parks, all-inclusive hotels, Bob Marley's birthplace, snorkeling, and dolphins.
Ocho Rios does have a beach where you can sit and relax. The water is crystal clear, and the sand is soft and white. However, it is far from the nicest beach in Jamaica. The tall hotels and housing developments kind of take away from its scenic beauty. And, the port where cruise ships land leaves swimmers with less space to explore the sea. We spent our first day in Ocho Rios at this beach. It was okay, but I decided we had to do one of the tourist attractions if we wanted to take advantage of our time in Ocho Rios.
Soraya, me and Raymi at the Ocho Rios Beach
The tourist attractions are expensive, so we told the kids all of their options – climbing the waterfall, horseback riding, playing with dolphins, and a boat ride out to sea – and said they had to choose one. The kids took a while to decide between the horseback ride, which involved riding horses through the sea and up the mountain, and going to see the dolphins. We finally decided on Dolphin Cove. They love horses, but they might not get another chance to see dolphins. Plus, the advertisement for Dolphin Cove is quite impressive.
When we arrived at our hotel in Ocho Rios, there was a sign in the lobby advertising Dolphin Cove. Soraya saw it and asked if we could go there. I told her we would have to think about it, as it was very expensive. She asked me how much. I told her about fifty dollars a person. She said, “that is not a lot.” I told her it was fifty American dollars. She asked why it was American dollars, if we are in Jamaica. Then, she looked at the poster again, and said, “I know why; it's because it's all white people.” Sure enough, the people in the photo enjoying the dolphins and other attractions were all white. Places like Dolphin Cove often do have a lower price for Jamaican residents. However, it is still not affordable for the vast majority of Jamaicans.
We set out for Dolphin Cove early Saturday morning. We found a taxi that didn't rip us off too much, and arrived there before 8 am. That was nice, as the place was empty when we arrived. I have to admit, the park was pretty nice. It is like an amusement park, but better. Instead of rides, you have unlimited access to sea kayaking, mini-boat rides, snorkeling, resting on the beach, and watching the dolphins play. The first thing we did was sea kayaking. At first, we used two kayaks, with Nando and I each in control of one. Soon, however, Tatiana and Soraya, my eight-year old twins, wanted to do it alone. And, they were able to. It was an enclosed area in the sea, so it was quite safe. We did have a minor incident, but it was more funny than dangerous. Nando's kayak got too close to the rocks, and a wave came and filled his kayak with water. Raymi, who is five years old, was in the kayak and had to jump over to mine. The lifeguard had to come and rescue Nando and take his kayak back to shore. After that, Raymi had a ball jumping from one kayak to the other.
Tanya and Nando Kayaking at Treasure Reef
Tatiana giving Raymi a ride
The next attraction was a mini-boat ride. This is a small motorboat that you or the guide can drive. The guide showed us how to ride the waves, and the girls loved it when the boat jumped up. From the boat, you can see a beautiful waterfall that pours down into the sea, as well as catch a glimpse of Dunn River Falls. It was awesome to be out on the sea in this mini-boat, and Tatiana even had a hand at driving the boat. Soraya was happy to sit on the end and bounce over the waves.
From there, we went to do snorkeling with the stingrays. When you first get into the water, the guides let you hold a stingray. Tatiana and Soraya had a lot of fun doing that. Then, they give you snorkeling gear, and you can explore the mini-reef yourself. I love snorkeling – it feels like you are viewing another world that people rarely have access to – the underwater realm.
After that, it was time for the main attraction of the day – the dolphin program. We had only paid for the kids to do the dolphin program. So, the three girls got into the water, where a dolphin trainer let them touch and kiss the dolphin. For about twenty minutes, they got to watch, up close, the trainer and the dolphin. It was magical to see those beautiful creatures up close. The kids were a bit disappointed they didn't get to swim with the dolphins, but I didn't want to dish out the extra cash for that.
The kids checking out the dolphin
After the dolphins, we spent the rest of the afternoon between kayaking, snorkeling, the mini boat, the stingrays, and the nature trail. On the nature trail, there were parrots, a couple of snakes and a huge iguana. Animal lovers that they are, the girls greatly enjoyed holding and playing with the animals. Sometimes their animal love can be a problem.
When we were snorkeling, Soraya saw a sea animal that looked cool and tried to catch it. She finally was able to pick it up. It turned out to be a “fire worm,” and it sprayed some stuff on her hands that burned them. I had to rush her up to the information desk, where they put some cream on it. The burning sensation finally went away, and Soraya went straight back to play with the stingrays.
I had to leave the park a bit early to go do my interviews, but Nando and the girls stayed right up until closing. It really was a magnificent day.
On Sunday, Soraya woke up feeling a bit under the weather, so we decided to take it easy. Just before noon, we went over to Island Village. This is basically a huge shopping mall, full of touristy stuff to buy. We ignored all the shops, and went straight to Margaritaville, a tourist trap restaurant par excellence. Despite that, it is actually a great concept for families. It has a nice pool right in the middle, with a decent waterslide. And, it is right on the beach, and you have access to the private beach if you dine there. It also has showers and clean bathrooms. We parked our family at one of the tables. The kids had a blast sliding down the waterslide and venturing out onto the beach.
Soraya chillin at Margaritaville
The beach was pretty nice, if you ignored the huge mall and unsightly port. The sand was white; the water was crystal clear; and it got quite deep as you swam out. I went in the sea and the pool a couple of times, but also took it easy, and just watched the kids run around while I enjoyed fajitas, pizza, and fish n chips.
We left Margaritaville around 4pm, and headed out to take our bus back to Kingston. As planned, the kids were tired and slept most of the way back. Overall, it was a nice mini-vacation, and I am glad to have had a break from the routine here in Kingston.
We decided to spend the weekend at Ocho Rios because I had some interviews with deportees there, and because it is only two hours from Kingston. When we first arrived, I was not impressed. The beach was too small and the buildings too high for my liking. However, once I gave in to the fact that we had to appreciate Ocho Rios for what it is, I was able to enjoy myself.
Ocho Rios may once have been acclaimed for its natural beauty. Today, however, its claim to fame is more the variety of activities designed to attract tourists – theme parks, all-inclusive hotels, Bob Marley's birthplace, snorkeling, and dolphins.
Ocho Rios does have a beach where you can sit and relax. The water is crystal clear, and the sand is soft and white. However, it is far from the nicest beach in Jamaica. The tall hotels and housing developments kind of take away from its scenic beauty. And, the port where cruise ships land leaves swimmers with less space to explore the sea. We spent our first day in Ocho Rios at this beach. It was okay, but I decided we had to do one of the tourist attractions if we wanted to take advantage of our time in Ocho Rios.
Soraya, me and Raymi at the Ocho Rios Beach
The tourist attractions are expensive, so we told the kids all of their options – climbing the waterfall, horseback riding, playing with dolphins, and a boat ride out to sea – and said they had to choose one. The kids took a while to decide between the horseback ride, which involved riding horses through the sea and up the mountain, and going to see the dolphins. We finally decided on Dolphin Cove. They love horses, but they might not get another chance to see dolphins. Plus, the advertisement for Dolphin Cove is quite impressive.
When we arrived at our hotel in Ocho Rios, there was a sign in the lobby advertising Dolphin Cove. Soraya saw it and asked if we could go there. I told her we would have to think about it, as it was very expensive. She asked me how much. I told her about fifty dollars a person. She said, “that is not a lot.” I told her it was fifty American dollars. She asked why it was American dollars, if we are in Jamaica. Then, she looked at the poster again, and said, “I know why; it's because it's all white people.” Sure enough, the people in the photo enjoying the dolphins and other attractions were all white. Places like Dolphin Cove often do have a lower price for Jamaican residents. However, it is still not affordable for the vast majority of Jamaicans.
We set out for Dolphin Cove early Saturday morning. We found a taxi that didn't rip us off too much, and arrived there before 8 am. That was nice, as the place was empty when we arrived. I have to admit, the park was pretty nice. It is like an amusement park, but better. Instead of rides, you have unlimited access to sea kayaking, mini-boat rides, snorkeling, resting on the beach, and watching the dolphins play. The first thing we did was sea kayaking. At first, we used two kayaks, with Nando and I each in control of one. Soon, however, Tatiana and Soraya, my eight-year old twins, wanted to do it alone. And, they were able to. It was an enclosed area in the sea, so it was quite safe. We did have a minor incident, but it was more funny than dangerous. Nando's kayak got too close to the rocks, and a wave came and filled his kayak with water. Raymi, who is five years old, was in the kayak and had to jump over to mine. The lifeguard had to come and rescue Nando and take his kayak back to shore. After that, Raymi had a ball jumping from one kayak to the other.
Tanya and Nando Kayaking at Treasure Reef
Tatiana giving Raymi a ride
The next attraction was a mini-boat ride. This is a small motorboat that you or the guide can drive. The guide showed us how to ride the waves, and the girls loved it when the boat jumped up. From the boat, you can see a beautiful waterfall that pours down into the sea, as well as catch a glimpse of Dunn River Falls. It was awesome to be out on the sea in this mini-boat, and Tatiana even had a hand at driving the boat. Soraya was happy to sit on the end and bounce over the waves.
From there, we went to do snorkeling with the stingrays. When you first get into the water, the guides let you hold a stingray. Tatiana and Soraya had a lot of fun doing that. Then, they give you snorkeling gear, and you can explore the mini-reef yourself. I love snorkeling – it feels like you are viewing another world that people rarely have access to – the underwater realm.
After that, it was time for the main attraction of the day – the dolphin program. We had only paid for the kids to do the dolphin program. So, the three girls got into the water, where a dolphin trainer let them touch and kiss the dolphin. For about twenty minutes, they got to watch, up close, the trainer and the dolphin. It was magical to see those beautiful creatures up close. The kids were a bit disappointed they didn't get to swim with the dolphins, but I didn't want to dish out the extra cash for that.
The kids checking out the dolphin
After the dolphins, we spent the rest of the afternoon between kayaking, snorkeling, the mini boat, the stingrays, and the nature trail. On the nature trail, there were parrots, a couple of snakes and a huge iguana. Animal lovers that they are, the girls greatly enjoyed holding and playing with the animals. Sometimes their animal love can be a problem.
When we were snorkeling, Soraya saw a sea animal that looked cool and tried to catch it. She finally was able to pick it up. It turned out to be a “fire worm,” and it sprayed some stuff on her hands that burned them. I had to rush her up to the information desk, where they put some cream on it. The burning sensation finally went away, and Soraya went straight back to play with the stingrays.
I had to leave the park a bit early to go do my interviews, but Nando and the girls stayed right up until closing. It really was a magnificent day.
On Sunday, Soraya woke up feeling a bit under the weather, so we decided to take it easy. Just before noon, we went over to Island Village. This is basically a huge shopping mall, full of touristy stuff to buy. We ignored all the shops, and went straight to Margaritaville, a tourist trap restaurant par excellence. Despite that, it is actually a great concept for families. It has a nice pool right in the middle, with a decent waterslide. And, it is right on the beach, and you have access to the private beach if you dine there. It also has showers and clean bathrooms. We parked our family at one of the tables. The kids had a blast sliding down the waterslide and venturing out onto the beach.
Soraya chillin at Margaritaville
The beach was pretty nice, if you ignored the huge mall and unsightly port. The sand was white; the water was crystal clear; and it got quite deep as you swam out. I went in the sea and the pool a couple of times, but also took it easy, and just watched the kids run around while I enjoyed fajitas, pizza, and fish n chips.
We left Margaritaville around 4pm, and headed out to take our bus back to Kingston. As planned, the kids were tired and slept most of the way back. Overall, it was a nice mini-vacation, and I am glad to have had a break from the routine here in Kingston.
Cover your shoulders!
Posted in
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Jamaica,
Kingston,
travel with kids
Sunday afternoon, Nando, the girls, and I set out for an outdoor festival, hosted by one of the Wailers (as in Bob Marley and the Wailers). It was a Rasta community event, with free food and drink, a sound system, and a variety of Rasta items for sale. Nando set up his jewelry table next to a table full of Rasta flags and paraphernalia. There was a waterslide for the kids, and plenty of ganja for adults who wished to indulge.
The food was delightful vegetarian fare – spicy vegetable soup to start with, followed by a plate of rice and beans with tofu stew. Raymi ate all of her soup, and asked for some chicken. This being a Rasta event, she had to settle for tofu. In addition to the vegetarian-only fare, long dreads, and pictures of Emperor Haile Selassie, apparently, women are supposed to cover up.
I found out the hard way. I was sitting next to Nando’s jewelry table when one of the guys with a security badge asked me if I had something to cover myself with. I told him I did not. He said it was okay this time, but I should know that, for the future, I needed to cover my shoulders.
Me in my "scandalous" tank top and shorts
I noticed that, although the women had on long flowing dresses and T-shirts, some of the men had on tank tops and shorts, some a lot skimpier than mine. One man was wearing a mesh tank-top that was completely see-through. I suppose the standards are different for men and women.
There also were a lot more men than women at this event. At the beginning, there were about 100 people, and no more than ten of them were women. The absence of women is something I have noticed in Rasta communities in Kingston. Each time I point this out, however, it is met with denial. So either the women tend to stay home, or the Rasta community is predominately male and people don’t like to talk about it.
As the afternoon progressed, more women showed up. Perhaps they were cooking the delicious food, or attending to their own household duties. At one point, the festival was up to about 20% women. Some of them had bare shoulders too, making me feel less out-of-place. The Rasta women with bare shoulders, however, did pull out shawls as they got closer to the prayer tent. However, there were two non-Rasta women who sat down near me who were wearing tank-tops that showed a lot more cleavage than me. As you can imagine, it is very hot in Kingston, so people don’t tend to cover up very much here.
The central focus of this event was a sermon, carried out by various individuals, mostly men. It began with a prayer song, and then people took the microphones to talk about community issues. They began with a discussion of a family who lost their home to a fire, and other families who lost their youth to gun violence. Others talked about community development, especially agricultural export. Perhaps most interesting was the juxtaposition of how Rastafarians are stigmatized for smoking ganja, yet utilized by the Jamaican Tourist Board as an example of Jamaicans’ cultural vivacity. One of the speakers argued that Rastafarians should have intellectual property rights over the use of Rastafarian symbols. One of the main reasons for this is the abuse of these symbols by tourist venues in places like Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. Another argued for the legalization of ganja. Since it is illegal, anyone with dreadlocks is presumed by the police to have marijuana. Therefore, the police frequently stop them to search their cars for ganja.
After a while, the kids got bored of the long sermon. So, we decided to head out to our friend, Kenny’s house. Kenny is a Rastafarian, and he had invited us to the event in the. Kenny has a small pool in his yard. As the waterslide had been shut down for the duration of the sermon, the kids were happy to leave to cool off in Kenny’s pool. They had a blast there, jumping around in Kenny’s pool.
Soraya cooling off in Kenny's pool
Kenny’s wife offered us some food – this time with chicken. It was a stew with chicken, bammy, coconut milk, and some herbs and spices. It was so good! Overall, it was a great Sunday in Kingston.
The food was delightful vegetarian fare – spicy vegetable soup to start with, followed by a plate of rice and beans with tofu stew. Raymi ate all of her soup, and asked for some chicken. This being a Rasta event, she had to settle for tofu. In addition to the vegetarian-only fare, long dreads, and pictures of Emperor Haile Selassie, apparently, women are supposed to cover up.
I found out the hard way. I was sitting next to Nando’s jewelry table when one of the guys with a security badge asked me if I had something to cover myself with. I told him I did not. He said it was okay this time, but I should know that, for the future, I needed to cover my shoulders.
Me in my "scandalous" tank top and shorts
I noticed that, although the women had on long flowing dresses and T-shirts, some of the men had on tank tops and shorts, some a lot skimpier than mine. One man was wearing a mesh tank-top that was completely see-through. I suppose the standards are different for men and women.
There also were a lot more men than women at this event. At the beginning, there were about 100 people, and no more than ten of them were women. The absence of women is something I have noticed in Rasta communities in Kingston. Each time I point this out, however, it is met with denial. So either the women tend to stay home, or the Rasta community is predominately male and people don’t like to talk about it.
As the afternoon progressed, more women showed up. Perhaps they were cooking the delicious food, or attending to their own household duties. At one point, the festival was up to about 20% women. Some of them had bare shoulders too, making me feel less out-of-place. The Rasta women with bare shoulders, however, did pull out shawls as they got closer to the prayer tent. However, there were two non-Rasta women who sat down near me who were wearing tank-tops that showed a lot more cleavage than me. As you can imagine, it is very hot in Kingston, so people don’t tend to cover up very much here.
The central focus of this event was a sermon, carried out by various individuals, mostly men. It began with a prayer song, and then people took the microphones to talk about community issues. They began with a discussion of a family who lost their home to a fire, and other families who lost their youth to gun violence. Others talked about community development, especially agricultural export. Perhaps most interesting was the juxtaposition of how Rastafarians are stigmatized for smoking ganja, yet utilized by the Jamaican Tourist Board as an example of Jamaicans’ cultural vivacity. One of the speakers argued that Rastafarians should have intellectual property rights over the use of Rastafarian symbols. One of the main reasons for this is the abuse of these symbols by tourist venues in places like Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. Another argued for the legalization of ganja. Since it is illegal, anyone with dreadlocks is presumed by the police to have marijuana. Therefore, the police frequently stop them to search their cars for ganja.
After a while, the kids got bored of the long sermon. So, we decided to head out to our friend, Kenny’s house. Kenny is a Rastafarian, and he had invited us to the event in the. Kenny has a small pool in his yard. As the waterslide had been shut down for the duration of the sermon, the kids were happy to leave to cool off in Kenny’s pool. They had a blast there, jumping around in Kenny’s pool.
Soraya cooling off in Kenny's pool
Kenny’s wife offered us some food – this time with chicken. It was a stew with chicken, bammy, coconut milk, and some herbs and spices. It was so good! Overall, it was a great Sunday in Kingston.
Another day in Kingston
Posted in
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Jamaica,
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travel with kids
This morning, I got the girls ready for camp while Nando fixed breakfast. Tatiana, Soraya, and Raymi are really enjoying their summer program at Edna Manley College for the Visual Arts. Each afternoon, I ask them what they did at camp. They say it was fun, but don't really want to give out any more info. I am just pleased they haven't started complaining about going yet. Probably a month in the house with us was a good antidote for those complaints.
Tatiana and Soraya on the way to camp
After camp, Nando took the girls down to the waterfront, with his friend, Ska. I thought about joining them. But, I also thought about the opportunity to get a lot of work done. I decided to stay in and get working on my book manuscript. It looks like I might have a contract for my book manuscript on immigration policy, so I took the afternoon to check my citations and footnotes, after spending the morning working on the conclusion.
It looks like Nando and the girls had fun at the waterfront. I had a somewhat relaxing day working from home.
Raymi at the waterfront
Soraya down by the water
Tatiana and Soraya on the way to camp
After camp, Nando took the girls down to the waterfront, with his friend, Ska. I thought about joining them. But, I also thought about the opportunity to get a lot of work done. I decided to stay in and get working on my book manuscript. It looks like I might have a contract for my book manuscript on immigration policy, so I took the afternoon to check my citations and footnotes, after spending the morning working on the conclusion.
It looks like Nando and the girls had fun at the waterfront. I had a somewhat relaxing day working from home.
Raymi at the waterfront
Soraya down by the water
A trip to the swimming hole in Gordon Town
Posted in
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travel with kids
This Sunday, the family took a trip to a swimming hole in Gordon Town. Although we were just outside of Kingston, it felt like a trip to the countryside.
I have been a bit of a recluse lately, which is quite unlike me, actually. I barely left the apartment complex this week, apart from taking the kids to summer camp on Monday and a lunch date with Nando at this fabulous Indian restaurant, Akbar, on Wednesday. On Saturday, the kids and I just hung out at our pool and lazed around all day, while Nando went to Papine to play music with a Rasta community. Nando, of course, has been getting all around Kingston. So, today, I decided I needed to get out of the house as well.
We called Ken, our taxi driver, and asked him to take us to a swimming hole in Gordon Town that Nando found on one of his trips to visit the Rasta communities in the Blue Mountains. It is about a twenty minute drive from our house, just past Papine. Ken dropped us off near the entrance, a precipitous climb down the hillside that leads past a few houses and to the river.
When we got to the swimming hole, there were a couple of dozen local kids jumping off of the rocks into the hole. Tatiana and Soraya were fascinated, and rushed to change into their swimsuits. Several people asked if they could swim, and we assured them that they know how to swim.
Before I could tell the kids not to go into the swimming hole until I could take a closer look, Tatiana and Soraya had already gone to the edge of the rocks and jumped in. Not too long afterwards, Nando dove in and Raymi joined him. I, on the other hand, was not ready to strip down and jump in the water. Not yet, anyway.
I wasn’t sure about getting into my swimming gear. Most of the people in the water were much younger than me, and nearly all were males. More importantly, I was a bit worried about jumping off of the rock, the only way to get into the swimming hole. I can be a bit of a chicken when it comes to scaling rocks and crossing rivers. So, I sat on top and enjoyed listening to the waterfall, looking at the green hills, and taking in the lovely Sunday afternoon. A very nice change from the urban scenery of Kingston. Tatiana and Soraya quickly made friends and were having a ball in the water. Raymi came out after a bit, and sat next to me on the big rock.
A couple of young men asked me if I was getting in, but I told them I wasn’t sure. Eventually, the sun got very hot, and I became tempted. I put on my bathing suit and put my feet in the water. But, I still wasn’t ready to jump in. I had realized that not only do you have to jump ten feet off of a big rock to get in; you also have to climb up some rocks to get back out. I wasn’t sure which worried me more, falling on the way in or falling on the way out. So, I stayed on the big rock.
A young man sat next to me and asked where I was from. I told him I was from Washington, DC. He told me his mother has been in the US for five years, and he would love to join her. She doesn’t have here papers straight, so she can’t bring him up there herself. He mentioned that he has some soursop and limes that grow in his yard, and that he’d like to give me some, that his spirit was telling him he should give me something. As we were talking, I realized that, just a few minutes outside of Kingston, we were in the countryside. The people at the watering hole seemed a lot more like country folk than Kingstonians, especially with this talk of giving me limes. Well, I suppose some Kingstonians have offered us mangoes.
Anyway, eventually I decided to overcome my fears and jump into the water. It did look quite refreshing, and I was getting hot sitting on that rock. So, I asked Nando to show me again how he jumped in and then climbed out. He did. It looked hard, but do-able. So, I inched a bit closer to the rock. I put away my glasses, as I was sure they would fall off if I jumped in with them. I watched a few more people jump off the rock. I told Nando I was going to do it; I just was trying to get up the courage.
Nando helped me get even closer to the ledge. He even put his foot where I was supposed to put mine to show me just how to do it. He is so sweet! Finally, I decided to take the plunge. I got to the edge of the rock, held my nose, and jumped right into the water. Ahhh, so refreshing! I swam around until I cooled off a bit, and then it was time to get out. Another challenge. Thoughts danced in my head of me never getting out.
I swam over to one of the ways out. You have to swim against the current to get to these rocks that lead out of the water. Then, you have to scale these large boulders to get back up to the path. I am not sure how Tatiana and Soraya did it so effortlessly. The twins got out of the water with a little help from Nando. Then, again, Nando came all the way down to help me up. With a lot of directions and some pulling, I got myself out of the watering hole. I sat on the rock to relax while I watched the kids continue to jump in and jump around until it was time to leave.
On the way home, we picked up some jerk chicken at Chelsea’s. Delicious! As I enjoyed my scrumptious chicken, I thought about how different my trip to Kingston is because I am with my family. Nando, because of the type of person he is, and the fact that he is a man, is able to get around Kingston easily and get to know people. I would have never found this swimming hole on my own. Even if I did, it would be really weird for me to go there by myself. Going with Nando and the girls, however, made it a bit less unusual. I am sure most of the people there know each other, and thought it a bit strange for us to come to their local spot. However, they were very welcoming to us, and helped the girls get in and out of the water whenever they needed to.
It was a great day. This week, I’ll try and get out of the house more often! That shouldn’t be too hard. I have some interviews scheduled in St. Thomas for Tuesday.
Our apartment in Kingston
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In Kingston, we have been very lucky to find a fully furnished condo to rent that has lovely gardens in addition to a swimming pool.
The place also has wireless Internet access, so I can work out on the patio. I am digging my new office...
Getting to (and from) Edna Manley
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My three daughters, Tatiana (8), Soraya (8), and Raymi (5), are finally in summer camp! We arrived in Jamaica on May 28, and the Jamaican children were still in school. So, we had to wait until now to get them enrolled in camp. We were lucky to find out about the Kaleidoscope summer program at the Edna Manley College for the Visual Arts.
The question for the first day was how to get them to camp. The campus is about a 30 minute walk from our house, and thus a bit too far for the girls, especially in this heat. My first idea was to take the easy route and call the taxi driver we have been using. However, as can be expected, he already has a morning run.
Figuring there must be some form of public transportation, Nando, the girls and I set out yesterday morning at 8:00am, towards Knutsford Blvd, which is about four blocks from our house. As we were approaching the boulevard, I saw a bus leaving from the bus stop. I tried to flag it down, but realized that it was a company charter bus. Then, I noticed a taxi driver calling us over. There was a woman in the front seat of the car, meaning that this was a route taxi. I told the driver we were going to Edna Manley College, and he said he could let us off nearby. We squeezed into the back seat, and it turns out he was kind enough to drop us right at the door, for JA $150 (US$2) for the five of us.
Once inside the camp, we had to wait in line for registration and then listen to orientation. We finally were able to leave at 10:30. Nando and I decided to walk home, to get some exercise. Once home, I stayed in to get some work done, and Nando went out to the market to buy some vegetables.
Around 2pm, I set out again towards the camp to pick the girls up. I decided I would walk. It’s easier to walk sometimes than to figure out how to take a bus or route taxi. Plus, I need to get as much exercise in as possible. I arrived, hot and sweaty, and the kids seemed as though they had enjoyed their day.
As we were leaving, several girls told Tatiana they like her hair. Tatiana told me one girl had asked her if her hair was real or fake. I am not sure how to explain to Tatiana why her long, straight, brown hair draws attention. On the one hand, it is nice that she develops a positive self-image. On the other hand, she also should learn that all hair is beautiful.
Soraya asked if she could invite a friend over. I told her to get the girl’s phone number and I would talk to her mother. Overall, it seems as though the first day of camp was a success. Now, we just had to figure out how to get home.
It took about ten minutes to walk from the campus to the street. So, by the time we were on the main street, Raymi was already complaining. However, we still had to cross the street and walk another block to the bus stop. I firmly told her that we were almost there, and she just had to keep on walking.
When we finally made it to the bus stop, the kids sat down on a ledge and a route taxi pulled up. One woman got inside. I asked the driver if he was going up Knutsford Boulevard. He was, so we piled into the back seat. It was very hot, so I was surprised the girls didn’t complain. Instead, they played with the cold water bottles I had brought with me.
Turns out this route taxi goes all the way to the corner of our house. He told us this is a regular route, and that we should be able to find a taxi right on the corner every morning. This was great news. We paid him JA $100 for the four of us, and made our way home. After a hot walk and taxi ride, I was more than ready for a refreshing dip in the pool. It also felt good to have figured out how to take the public transport to and from camp with the girls.
The question for the first day was how to get them to camp. The campus is about a 30 minute walk from our house, and thus a bit too far for the girls, especially in this heat. My first idea was to take the easy route and call the taxi driver we have been using. However, as can be expected, he already has a morning run.
Figuring there must be some form of public transportation, Nando, the girls and I set out yesterday morning at 8:00am, towards Knutsford Blvd, which is about four blocks from our house. As we were approaching the boulevard, I saw a bus leaving from the bus stop. I tried to flag it down, but realized that it was a company charter bus. Then, I noticed a taxi driver calling us over. There was a woman in the front seat of the car, meaning that this was a route taxi. I told the driver we were going to Edna Manley College, and he said he could let us off nearby. We squeezed into the back seat, and it turns out he was kind enough to drop us right at the door, for JA $150 (US$2) for the five of us.
Once inside the camp, we had to wait in line for registration and then listen to orientation. We finally were able to leave at 10:30. Nando and I decided to walk home, to get some exercise. Once home, I stayed in to get some work done, and Nando went out to the market to buy some vegetables.
Around 2pm, I set out again towards the camp to pick the girls up. I decided I would walk. It’s easier to walk sometimes than to figure out how to take a bus or route taxi. Plus, I need to get as much exercise in as possible. I arrived, hot and sweaty, and the kids seemed as though they had enjoyed their day.
As we were leaving, several girls told Tatiana they like her hair. Tatiana told me one girl had asked her if her hair was real or fake. I am not sure how to explain to Tatiana why her long, straight, brown hair draws attention. On the one hand, it is nice that she develops a positive self-image. On the other hand, she also should learn that all hair is beautiful.
Soraya asked if she could invite a friend over. I told her to get the girl’s phone number and I would talk to her mother. Overall, it seems as though the first day of camp was a success. Now, we just had to figure out how to get home.
It took about ten minutes to walk from the campus to the street. So, by the time we were on the main street, Raymi was already complaining. However, we still had to cross the street and walk another block to the bus stop. I firmly told her that we were almost there, and she just had to keep on walking.
When we finally made it to the bus stop, the kids sat down on a ledge and a route taxi pulled up. One woman got inside. I asked the driver if he was going up Knutsford Boulevard. He was, so we piled into the back seat. It was very hot, so I was surprised the girls didn’t complain. Instead, they played with the cold water bottles I had brought with me.
Turns out this route taxi goes all the way to the corner of our house. He told us this is a regular route, and that we should be able to find a taxi right on the corner every morning. This was great news. We paid him JA $100 for the four of us, and made our way home. After a hot walk and taxi ride, I was more than ready for a refreshing dip in the pool. It also felt good to have figured out how to take the public transport to and from camp with the girls.
An evening walk to Putt n Play
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I spent Sunday doing laundry, cleaning up, and playing with the kids in the pool. In the afternoon, as promised, I took the girls to the Putt n Play near Emancipation Park in New Kingston.
Putt n Play is about a fifteen minute walk from our house, just past the Hilton. I know the route well, as I walked it each day I went to the Hilton for the Caribbean Studies Association Conference.
We left the house around 6pm, too early for the prostitutes who hang out on the corner to be out. It was still light out, so I was not too nervous walking past the sewer line where the crackheads live. Nevertheless, I was relieved to arrive at the Strip, where the lights from the Digicell lighted billboard illuminate the street. From there, it is a well-lit route to the Putt n Play.
My husband, Nando, met us there. He had spent the day with a friend at Hellshire Beach. His friend is from Trenchtown, and never leaves the garrison. This was the first time he had been to Hellshire Beach. He has never been to New Kingston. One day, he'll come visit us here.
At the ticket gate, I told the girls they could each have two tickets. Raymi chose two rides, and Tatiana and Soraya chose one ride and one game of mini-golf each. After the rides, Soraya and I shared a jerk sausage, and Raymi and Tatiana got ice cream sandwiches.
It was 8pm, and time to go home. As it wasn't too late, we opted to walk back. We hoped to tire the girls out some more, and to get some exercise ourselves. When we came upon the street with the crackheads, I got just a bit nervous.
A couple of weeks ago, Nando was accosted on this street. Two men asked him for money and stuck their hands in his pockets. He didn't have any money in his pockets. Fortunately, they left without harming him. That was much later at night. Nando said it wasn't a big deal. But, it bothers me. And, I am glad it didn't happen to me, as that would freak me out.
We made it past that street and the one with the prostitutes without incident.
When I got home, I had an email from the transcriptionist with my first transcribed interview. Perfect timing. Tomorrow, the girls will be at summer camp, and I will have all day to go over the interview and double-check it.
I am also thinking of popular venues where I can begin to submit some of my work in progress. I sent queries to The Nation and ColorLines. We'll see if either is interested.
Race, Class, and the “Ice Age”: A trip to the cinema at the Sovereign in Kingston
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My children have been anxious to see “Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs” ever since they saw the advertisements on television for the movie. In general, it has been a challenge for us to get used to having cable television. Back in the US, we don’t have cable, and only allow the children to watch DVDs from the library and the free ones in the children’s section of Family Video. The advantage of this, besides saving money, is that there are no commercials to speak of on DVDs.
A constant diet of cable television and thus commercials, has sparked a desire in my children for all sorts of toys and other consumer items of which they had previously been unaware. The system I have developed is that whenever they ask for “Bendaroos” or “Chixso girls,” I tell them to put it on a list so that when Christmas comes around, they will have some ideas for a list for Santa. This seems to be working so far. “Ice Age,” however couldn’t exactly go on a Christmas list. So, I decided that it wouldn’t be such a bad idea to let them go to the movies.
I found a friend also interested in taking her kids to the movies, and she had the brilliant idea of dropping them off at the movie theatre. So, we dropped them off with a large bucket of popcorn, and I instructed the girls not to leave the movie theatre under any circumstances. Lucky for me, downstairs, there was a lovely coffee shop also in Sovereign Mall – The Blue Café.
I parked myself at a table, and ordered a “blueccino,” a sweet, delicious frozen coffee drink. Just the inspiration I needed to finish the final revisions of my article. About two weeks ago, I received notice that an article I wrote on race and color classifications in Peru has been conditionally accepted by a top Sociology journal. I have been working on the revisions this week. And, with the extra time I had this afternoon at the café, I was able to send it off to the Editor! That is a relief!
I don’t have access to a printer, and that would be the first time I have submitted an article for publication without printing it out and going over it with a fine-tooth comb. Well, except for the book review I submitted a few days ago. Anyway, I had closely edited it before sending it out, and I am being more ecological this way. My normal practice had been to print out each version as I revise.
At any rate, it’s off, and I am glad about that! Once I sent it off, I had the opportunity to observe my surroundings here in Sovereign Mall, an upscale shopping center in New Kingston.
The first thing I must admit is that I can’t get over the fact that there really are white Jamaicans. I mean, I knew that there were some, but it is still surprising. I have to really try hard not to stare when I hear white people speaking with a noticeable Jamaican accent. And, in this upscale coffee shop, it seems as though I have seen more white Jamaicans in the past hour than I have in my entire time in Kingston! In addition to white Jamaicans, there are also a remarkable number of foreigners passing through the coffee shop. Overall, the demographics at this mall look a lot more like what I saw at the Hilton than any other place I’ve seen in Kingston.
I suppose any city has remarkable inequalities. And, Kingston shares with most cities a sharp divide between the rich and the poor. Sitting in hardwood chair with a white leather seat cover, typing away on my laptop, it is hard to believe the poverty that lies just a few kilometers away.
Well, enough musing, I’d best get back to the cinema to make sure the children don’t decide to roam around the mall in search of all of those toys they have seen on television!
A constant diet of cable television and thus commercials, has sparked a desire in my children for all sorts of toys and other consumer items of which they had previously been unaware. The system I have developed is that whenever they ask for “Bendaroos” or “Chixso girls,” I tell them to put it on a list so that when Christmas comes around, they will have some ideas for a list for Santa. This seems to be working so far. “Ice Age,” however couldn’t exactly go on a Christmas list. So, I decided that it wouldn’t be such a bad idea to let them go to the movies.
I found a friend also interested in taking her kids to the movies, and she had the brilliant idea of dropping them off at the movie theatre. So, we dropped them off with a large bucket of popcorn, and I instructed the girls not to leave the movie theatre under any circumstances. Lucky for me, downstairs, there was a lovely coffee shop also in Sovereign Mall – The Blue Café.
I parked myself at a table, and ordered a “blueccino,” a sweet, delicious frozen coffee drink. Just the inspiration I needed to finish the final revisions of my article. About two weeks ago, I received notice that an article I wrote on race and color classifications in Peru has been conditionally accepted by a top Sociology journal. I have been working on the revisions this week. And, with the extra time I had this afternoon at the café, I was able to send it off to the Editor! That is a relief!
I don’t have access to a printer, and that would be the first time I have submitted an article for publication without printing it out and going over it with a fine-tooth comb. Well, except for the book review I submitted a few days ago. Anyway, I had closely edited it before sending it out, and I am being more ecological this way. My normal practice had been to print out each version as I revise.
At any rate, it’s off, and I am glad about that! Once I sent it off, I had the opportunity to observe my surroundings here in Sovereign Mall, an upscale shopping center in New Kingston.
The first thing I must admit is that I can’t get over the fact that there really are white Jamaicans. I mean, I knew that there were some, but it is still surprising. I have to really try hard not to stare when I hear white people speaking with a noticeable Jamaican accent. And, in this upscale coffee shop, it seems as though I have seen more white Jamaicans in the past hour than I have in my entire time in Kingston! In addition to white Jamaicans, there are also a remarkable number of foreigners passing through the coffee shop. Overall, the demographics at this mall look a lot more like what I saw at the Hilton than any other place I’ve seen in Kingston.
I suppose any city has remarkable inequalities. And, Kingston shares with most cities a sharp divide between the rich and the poor. Sitting in hardwood chair with a white leather seat cover, typing away on my laptop, it is hard to believe the poverty that lies just a few kilometers away.
Well, enough musing, I’d best get back to the cinema to make sure the children don’t decide to roam around the mall in search of all of those toys they have seen on television!
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