Relax and Have a Beer at Norman Manley Beach Park in Negril

Negril's famous Seven-Mile Beach is chock full of restaurants, hotels, and bars. One of my favorite places to have a drink there is also one of the cheapest.

At the very end of the Seven-Mile Beach, just before you cross over the bridge into central Negril is Norman Manley Beach Park. This public park has a wooden structure that operates as a bar every day from around 11am to 8pm, and until midnight on Sundays. The bar itself has no name. I usually refer to it as Sanchez's, as the current owner is called Sanchez.

The bar is almost never crowded, except on Sunday nights, when it is packed full of locals jamming to dancehall on a huge sound system.

Most days, you'll find a couple of people playing dominoes at one of the tables, and a tourist or a local having a drink at the bar.

Jamaicans often order a flask of J.B. rum with a Coke, a Ting or a Red Bull. That order will get you as many cups of ice as you need. If your not into hard liquor, you can order the classic Red Stripe, or my favorite, Dragon Stout. No alcohol, no problem: you can order a Wata or a juice.

Many days, after a long walk on the beach, I'd sit in Sanchez's bar and alternately gaze at the amazing Caribbean Sea and listen to the Jamaicans at the bar talking in patois about their next business venture. Sitting there, I'd reflect on how lucky I was to have this amazing view, to feel the cool breeze, and just being able to completely chill out.

Unlike many of the other bars on the beach, you see very few vendors at Sanchez's. Although Negril is full of tourists, there are also relatively few tourists at this bar.

Definitely worth checking out while you are in Negril. If you go, tell Sanchez that Tanya sent you....

Two Weeks Alone in Negril

I spent two weeks traveling alone in Negril, Jamaica.

When you travel alone in Jamaica, however, you really are alone only as long as you want to be. As soon as you are ready to engage with the outside world, there are plenty of people willing to talk.

I spent my first few days here enjoying my solitude. When people called to me on the street, I ignored them. When people tried to start conversations on the beach, I cut them off. I wanted to be alone. I particularly didn't want to be bothered with inane conversations: "What's your name? Where are you from? First time in Jamaica?" Yeah, those can be pretty annoying. I know it sounds rude, but I find that, if I am not going to talk to a person, it is better to completely ignore them than to respond to their shouts and try to explain to them that you don't want to have a conversation. People usually assume you didn't hear them.

After a few days, however, I felt as though I had regained my grounding, and began to talk to people more. I started talking to people I know from the last time I was here. I am here in Negril doing ethnography, but my first few days were purely observational. After a few days, however, I had some questions about what I was seeing, so it was a suitable time to begin to engage in conversation.

The first person I spoke with for an extended period of time was a Jamaican who lived abroad for many years, but has now settled back in Jamaica. We chatted for a bit about how you can tell the difference between a Jamaican from Kingston and one who has lived abroad. The differences are often subtle, as urban working class Jamaicans and urban working class New Yorkers often dress quite similarly. As I began to have more questions and ideas about my work on Jamaican return migration, I engaged in more and more conversations.

I met up with a friend who was deported two years ago, and we talked about how he has learned to survive here in Negril. He explained to me that he works with the guys who change money. He hangs around and is available to run errands for them whenever they need it. They have grown to trust him, and give him tips whenever he runs an errand. With that money, plus the money his mother sends from the US, he is able to get by.

My last four days here in Jamaica, I completely emerged from my shell. I realized I only had a few days left, and had to get as much ethnography in as possible. After being here for ten days, I had a good idea as to who I could talk to and who I shouldn't. I started having conversations with strangers. This turned out to be remarkably enjoyable and informative.

On Friday, as I walked along the beach, an older rasta began to chat with me.We walked for about two miles along the beach, and he recounted to me how he had traveled to the US and been deported, and then gone to Europe and had been deported as well. Now, he makes a living working at a local bar. He is a deportee, but I doubt anyone would know it without talking to him for quite some time.

On Wednesday, I went out to a bar and chatted with several people about my work. These conversations helped me get a better understanding of why some deportees are able to get by and others aren't. Basically, in Jamaica, you have to figure out how things work and find a place for yourself within that framework. For some, starting a small business is the only way they will be successful. Others are willing to accept the status hierarchies and submissiveness that go along with working for someone else and can do that to survive. Still others figure out a hustle on the streets that works for them and do that to get by.

The first few days I was alone in Negril, it had been so long since I had long periods of time to myself that I really had to embrace my solitude and get comfortable with myself again. Soon enough, however, I had to start engaging with people. And, I am glad I did.

When you are traveling alone, you have the choice as to whether or not you want to talk to people. It was nice to have that choice for a while.

Unanticipated Benefits: A Story, a Hat, and a Long Walk

One of the great things about traveling to new places is that you get to meet people you never would have encountered had you stayed home.

For the two weeks I will be here in Negril, I decided that I will walk six miles a day. From my cottage - Silver Star Outback - in the center of Negril, it is three miles to the Lighthouse along the cliffs, and three miles to the end of the beach. Thus, I set out in either direction each afternoon and come back in the evening after having taken a long walk.

Today, I set out towards the cliffs. About ten minutes after leaving the cottage, I saw Miss Pamela across the road. Miss Pamela crochets hats and bags and sells them by the road for a living. She called me across the street and I went to greet her. I wished her a happy new year, and asked her how she had passed the holiday season. She started to say that it was good, but then interrupted herself to tell me that it was also sad, as her daughter had passed away.

Miss Pamela’s daughter, aged 38, had died of ovarian cancer in November. She hadn’t told her mother or anyone else of her diagnosis, and suffered in silence until she died. For her mother, her death was completely unexpected, and, possibly avoidable. She began to shed tears as she told me that her daughter tried to protect her by not telling her, but that she would have moved mountains to save her had she been given the chance. I told Miss Pamela that it was okay to cry. Only a person without a heart wouldn’t cry in the face of such great loss.

Miss Pamela’s daughter left two boys that she now cares for. One is ten, and thus is still in school and Miss Pamela has to find the money each day for school fees, uniforms, and lunch. She shook her head in disbelief that she has been able to provide for the boy. “The Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away,” she told me.

As a mother, it is unfathomable to me to imagine that my children would leave this earth before I do. As a woman, I was reminded that I need to make an appointment to get my pap smear and mammogram so that I can be sure I am healthy.

Our conversation turned lighter as Miss Pamela asked me about my children and told me stories of how she used to live close to a mutual friend of ours brother many years ago when her children were young. Today, Miss Pamela has 14 grandchildren and three granddaughters. She lamented the relative lack of little girls among her grandchildren. When she asked about my twins, she told me one of her sisters had five sets of twins!

Before leaving her stand, I bought a crocheted hat from Miss Pamela. I wanted to do something to alleviate her stress and depression. I got a green, gold, red, and black striped crocheted skull cap that I put on as I left.

As I walked up the road towards the lighthouse, I thought about our conversation and how ephemeral life is. I don’t like to think about that too much, so I quickly began to muse about other things as I appreciated the great blue sea to my right.

When I came back down the hill, I reflected on the fact that today, unlike most days, all of the Jamaican men who called out to me during my walk were respectful.  Instead of hissing or shouting “hey baby” or “do you need a man?,” people greeted me with a smile and a “good afternoon.” A couple of young men did flirt, but their flirtations were polite and not too insistent.

Perhaps it was just a fluke. Perhaps it was the cap. I will have to wear it again tomorrow to find out.

Funny, though. I purchased the cap to help Miss Pamela out, to remember her, and to remind myself to make an OB/GYN appointment when I get back to the United States. Sometimes you do something that has unanticipated positive consequences.

One of the great things about traveling is the people you encounter and the conversations you have. The trip will be over soon, but the memories will linger.

Walking in Negril: No Problem, Mon

Seven Mile Beach, Negril

There are many ways to get around Negril: private taxis, route taxis, hotel buses, bicycles, and on foot. Few visitors to Negril are aware that you can actually walk from one end of town to another. If you walk at a leisurely pace, you can get from the Lighthouse on the West End all the way to Beaches on the far end of the beach in about 3 hours.

From Beaches, you can continue along a 100 meter path and come out on the other side to another public beach. From there, there is another Beaches, and then Hedonism. The Seven Mile Beach ends there. If you walk it, you might realize that the beach is not actually seven miles, despite the name. It is about four miles from Norman Manley Public Beach to the end of Hedonism. From point to point, all of Negril is about 7 miles long: Four miles of beach; One mile from the beach to the edge of downtown; and Three miles up to the Lighthouse.

One nice walk in Negril is from the Canoe Bar at the beginning of the West End up to the Lighthouse at the far end of the West End. This would take about 90 minutes if you didn’t stop along the way. But, stops along the way are the best part. You can have a delicious lunch at the Canoe Bar or Easy Rock Café before heading on your journey, and will have plenty of time to get to Rick’s Café to see the sunset.

View from the Lighthouse

If you walk during the summer months, it is best to wait until about 4pm to start your journey as it can be too hot otherwise. In the winter, however, you can do this walk almost any time of the day.

One excellent place to stop along the way is Xtabi, a restaurant and hotel with an amazing view of the cliffs. If you are feeling brave, you can jump off of Xtabi’s cliffs or swim out to one of their caves. If you want to keep your hiking gear dry, you can explore the caves without getting into the water. If you eat here, the conch burger is quite tasty! Xtabi is a great place to stop and cool off, as the rest of the walk is mostly shaded, especially after the sun begins to go behind the trees (about 3pm).

Just next to Xtabi is Three Dives, which also has an amazing view of the cliffs, and delicious jerk conch and chicken if you are hungry. If not, you can relax with a Red Stripe or my favorite, Dragon Stout, on their benches that overlook the sea.

From Three Dives, it is about a 30 minute walk up to Rick’s Café, where you can walk in and watch all of the cliff jumpers and take in the beautiful view. You also can swim here in the transparent water to cool off before heading up to the Lighthouse, which does not have swimming.

The Lighthouse is about a twenty minute walk from Rick’s Café. This is my favorite part of the walk. Once you get past Rick’s Café, there are very few vendors, lots of vegetation, and many different views of the sea. It is also cooler as there is plenty of shade and often a nice sea breeze.

The view at the Lighthouse is spectacular, and there usually is a cool breeze blowing. The snorkeling at the Lighthouse is fantastic as well. You just have to have the guts to walk down the steep wooden ladder, across the rocks and into the sea. You can stay at the Lighthouse to watch the sunset, or go back to any of the many bars and restaurants you saw along the way to relax and witness the sun dropping into the sea.

If you are up for it, you can walk back…. downhill. Or, you can catch a ride in the many route taxis that run up and down One Love Drive.

One caveat: There is no sidewalk along One Love Drive. For this reason, it is best to do this walk during the day. At night, it can be quite alarming, with cars speeding past you.

Traveling Solo: Not scared to be alone

I am traveling alone in Jamaica, and reflecting on what it means for a mother and a wife to be alone.

When I met my husband, Fernando, in 1999 in Rio de Janeiro, I was traveling alone. I wanted to go to South America and could find no one to accompany me. My brother had promised to come, but backed out at the last minute. So, I called my friend Fabio in Rio and told him I was coming to Brazil.

In 1999, I was 25 years old and ready for an adventure. I got what I was looking for when I met Fernando and became a traveling hippie selling beaded necklaces on the side of the road throughout Brazil, Bolivia, and Peru.

I have not traveled alone since. At least, I have not traveled for more than a day or two as I make my way somewhere to meet someone.

In late 2010, I found myself in a situation similar to 1999. I wanted to travel and no one wanted to or could come with me. My children couldn’t come because they have school. My husband would have to stay to look after them. My friends and siblings had too much work or not enough money. I decided that this would not stop me. I wanted to go to Jamaica in early 2011, and I would make my plans regardless of whether or not anyone would come with me.

On January 1, 2011, I woke up in Miami with the realization that the day had come. I was getting ready to board a plane to Negril, Jamaica. By myself. I admit that I briefly considered not going. I am not sure what I was scared of.

Was I scared to be alone? When I was younger, I hated having time to sit around and think because, inevitably, those times would bring back memories of frightful moments or realizations that people I cared for deeply had been harmed. So, I kept going, going, and going so I would not have to think about those things.

My mother says you can’t just push back your fears and feelings: you have to deal with them. I am not sure if I processed all of those memories, or if they really have receded, but I now can sit alone and remember a few horrible moments in my life without breaking down in tears. So, I don’t think I was scared of being alone.

I may have been scared of coming alone to Jamaica, of being put in harm’s way. Of course, I know that Negril is much safer than many urban areas in the United States where I have lived. Nevertheless, as a woman who walks alone, I also know that I can be in danger anywhere. Now that I am here, I feel safe nearly all of the time except for the 20 steps I have to take each evening through a dark path between the hardware store and my cottage.

I once had a boyfriend who practiced martial arts. He told me that I should run if I ever had to walk down a dark street alone at night as I would be less likely to be attacked. At the time, I lived behind Prince George’s Mall outside of Washington, DC, and had to walk through a badly lit apartment complex each evening when I came home from work. I always ran.

Here in Negril, the first night I had to walk through that badly lit driveway, I ran. In my second step, I tripped on a huge stone and cut my hand open. I have not deigned to run down that path since.

Back to being alone. I sit here in my cottage, listening to schoolchildren play during the day and dogs bark at night. As I spend nearly all of my time alone, I don’t get to smile and laugh with friends or make jokes and play with my children. I don’t get to share a meal or an embrace with my husband. However, I know my solitude is temporary and have resolved to make the most of it.

Being alone, I can be completely relaxed all of the time. I can be calm and reflective. I can get up when I please. My mind is clear. I have only to worry about my needs. I am at peace.
Today is January 6, my fifth day alone. I have nine more days to myself. When these two weeks are over, I can go back to being part of the family and community I love and cherish. For now, I will focus on me.

Focusing on me means eating whatever and whenever I please. For now, I have decided to be vegetarian and to abstain from alcohol. Focusing on me means taking very long walks on the beach without worrying I have been gone too long. And focusing on me means spending my mornings writing without worrying about distractions.

My solitude feels good. I am not scared to be alone.

How to Stop Time?

When I was on leave last year from my university position, the days passed by slowly, allowing me to enjoy each of them as they came and went. Now that I have been back at work for four months, I miss those times.

On the last day of my 14-month leave in early August 2010, I wrote this…

I am sitting in my rented cottage in Negril, waiting for the driver, Leroy, to come pick me and my suitcase up. From where I am sitting, I can see abundant greenery – palm trees, ackee trees, and lots of small green bushes. The sky is clear, with just a few clouds floating overhead. It is a beautiful, calm morning in Negril. Negril is a truly fabulous piece of Mother Earth, and I have been very fortunate to spend these past two and a half months here.

It is hard to believe this year is over, just as it was hard to believe that I actually was going to do this – take my family to live in four different countries over a period of 14 months. When I applied for the funding, I thought I would never actually get it. When I heard I had been awarded the Fulbright-Hays Faculty Research Abroad Award, I still was not sure how I would pull it off. But, I did. We did – my husband and my three children survived all of our escapades. Survived, and even thrived.

As I am apprehensive about returning, I have to remind myself that I was apprehensive about leaving. Life is like that – things always seem different when they are actually happening. When faced with new situations, we adapt. Once we adapt, we just start living, day to day. Once life starts happening, we just get into the rhythm.

Looking back on this, I fear I allowed myself to get into the rhythm perhaps a bit too much. How can we enjoy life when it seems to fly by so quickly? Time, of course, cannot be stopped, but, surely there is a way to enjoy life more, to take pause each day and enjoy each passing moment.

The semester is over for me, and it has flown by all too quickly. I am now packing my bags to leave Lawrence for four weeks. During this time that I am on the road – in Washington, DC with my family, in Miami with friends, and in Negril, alone – I will reflect on how quickly life is passing me by and do my best to enjoy each passing moment.

Perhaps I will even feel inspired to post a blog entry about it….

Until then,
Tanya

Countdown: Four more days before I am back in the United States

My summer in Negril, Jamaica is nearly over. More importantly, my 14 and a half months outside of the United States will end in just four days.

This year has been fabulous. Changing countries every three months has its challenges, but it is also has been amazing experience. Three months in each country has been just enough time for me to get used to a place, to figure out how things work, and to gain insight into the local culture. To see and learn so much in three months and then to uproot myself and my family to an entirely different place is an eye-opening experience. At its base, it is an incredible sensory adventure: each place smells, feels, tastes, sounds, and looks different from the last.

When we first arrive in a place, we have had to figure things out quickly: school for the kids, public transportation, where to live, where the grocery store is, and how to get my research set up. In Brazil, research, school, and a house seemed like an unattainable trinity, but it eventually worked out. Once all that is done, we settle into our new life and try and make sure we take advantage of the best each locale has to offer. Living like this, life is full of surprises, of new experiences, of adventures, and challenges. Admittedly, fourteen months is probably enough of living on the edge.

A few days ago, my husband and three kids went back to Kansas. I stayed behind in Negril to finish up my work here. My Fulbright-Hays award started on August 13, 2009, so I have to stay out of the United States until August 12, 2010 to finish the full 365 days abroad. It turns out that my last few days of solitude have been a very good thing for me.

As my family was planning to leave Jamaica, I was worried about how I would feel once they left. I anticipated missing them tremendously and being lonely during my last few days in Negril. I thought I might overwork myself because of boredom and return to the United States frazzled. However, it did not work out that way. When they left, I was on the phone constantly with my husband helping him get settled and doing online research and transactions for them. The constant phone contact helped me to miss them less.

When my husband and children left, I expended quite a bit of energy getting them packed and then making sure they would be able to get settled back into Kansas. They left on Tuesday. I spent nearly all day Wednesday online and on the phone doing things for them. Thursday and Friday were a bit less intense, but I was still involved. By Saturday, I had recovered from their move and had done most of what needed to be done.

Now, I have Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday to reflect on life and take care of myself. I will dedicate Wednesday to getting ready for my own move. Thursday morning, I am on a plane to Atlanta for a five day conference. Then, back to Kansas for the start of classes, meetings, and more meetings. My upcoming very busy schedule means that I really do need these next few days to relax, recover, and recuperate.

Having ten days in Negril to myself has meant that I have been able to relax and recuperate, as well as to prepare for my return. As we have already been in Negril for two months, I already have things figured out and have settled into a routine. Now that I have fully recovered from the family’s move back to Kansas, I can enjoy my last few days of this amazing year. I need and deserve a break, so am glad to have one!

Kool Runnings Water Park: Sun, Splashing, and Dance Contests

On Tuesday, I took the kids to Kool Runnings Water Park. After being in Negril for two months, my daughters, aged 9, 9, and 6, often complain that we always do the same thing – go to the beach. I decided that before we left Negril, we could splurge a bit and take the kids to Kool Runnings.

We arrived right at 11:00am, opening time. The admission price is US$28, and we wanted to take full advantage of our tickets. Unfortunately, the staff members were not ready to receive us at 11:00am, and a line formed behind us while they got themselves together. At about 11:20am, we finally were able to buy tickets, except for that they had a problem with my credit card, which took another twenty minutes to resolve. Finally, at 11:40, we were able to get into the park!

Kool Runnings Water Park has just a few main attractions: 1) Seven water slides; 2) A Lazy River; and 3) An interactive children’s area. My kids were too big for the children’s area, and the Lazy River is not very fun, so we spent most of our time on the water slides.

The water slides are divided into two structures. You walk up the stairs of either of the two structures and choose which waterslide you want to go on. Two of the water slides are with floatable rafts only, and the others are without rafts. Kool Runnings provides rafts for one person, for two persons, and for three. It was fun for me to go down the rafts with my daughters.

We spent most of the morning running up and down the stairs of the waterslides and sliding down. I used to love the very fast and scary rides when I was younger. Not anymore. I stuck to the slides that are less exhilarating and where your heart will not rise to your throat as you go down. My kids, in contrast, tried all of the slides, many, many times. Perhaps because it was a Tuesday, the park was not very crowded, and we rarely had to wait more than a couple of minutes to get on the slides.

When I first saw that the water park is fairly small, I was disappointed. However, as the day wore on, I realized two things: 1) A small park makes it much more relaxing for me; I could see the kids from most vantage points, and 2) The seven slides provided plenty of fun for the kids. The kids, of course, have a lot more energy than me. Thus, when I tired of running up and down the stairs, I could sit in the shade and relax while watching them run up and down the stairs.

Before going to Kool Runnings, I was worried that lunch might be expensive. I packed a few snacks just in case. I was pleased to find out that the lunch is both reasonable and tasty. I had a jerk chicken lunch for JA$380 – less than US$5, and the kids had hamburgers for the same price.

After lunch, it was more slides and slides for the kids. I spent most of the afternoon relaxing and listening to the reggae music blasting from the speakers. However, I had a second wind when the sun began to go down and it was not as hot, and got on the slides again. The Lazy River is also much more enjoyable when the sun is not blazing on you, so I floated around that a few times with the kids.

Kool Runnings has a DJ, and he attracted the attention of the crowd a few times through contests. My kids just love to participate in contests, so they were eager to get on stage. The first contest was a hula hoop contest, and all three participated. Unfortunately for them, there was a hula hoop expert in the competition who more than outlasted everyone else. After that, there was a reggae dance contest. Of course, we are in Jamaica, but I did not dare tell the kids that their chances of winning a reggae dance contest were slim to none. Soraya and Raymi rushed to the stage. Tatiana decided to sit this one out.

The DJ decided that each kid would dance for thirty seconds. Despite my high expectations for the Jamaican-American contestants, they actually were not that good. The DJ put on popular dancehall songs that have a dance that goes along with them. The older kids did the dance choreographed in the music video, but without much grace or style. Raymi and Soraya were not privy to the choreographed dances, so just did their thing. Raymi did some foot-kicking moves and Soraya did her Michael Jackson-esque routine. The winner, however, was the two-year old who really shook her thing. When it was all over, Raymi asked me why they always let the littlest one win. At least she did not take it as a blow to her self esteem. Raymi also pointed out that the little one copied her moves! When they get older, I will have to remind them of how they bravely participated in a reggae dance contest in Negril, Jamaica!

When I tell them that story, I might also tell them that I participated in a cumbia dance contest in Peru. A couple of years ago, when I was in Piura, I went to a technocumbia show, and they called people on the stage to dance. Thinking it would be fun, I went on stage. The show was in the rural part of Alto Piura, where there are few to no white people or foreigners. I won the competition, by popular vote. I am sure the cheers were more out of surprise that a) there was a white woman in rural Piura and b) she got on stage to dance!

All in all, Kool Runnings was a good way to spend the day. The crowd there was nearly all Jamaican and Jamaican-American. I suspect that most foreign tourists would rather spend the day at the picturesque beaches than at the water park. I, too, would have preferred to be at the beach. My kids, of course, would disagree.

How I ended up at Margaritaville, Negril

The ideal beach for me has clear sea water, white sands, plenty of greenery in view, and is isolated. I like to relax on the beach and contemplate its beauty, so I prefer empty beaches.

Unfortunately, my three daughters do not share this preference. In Negril, they shun the secluded, empty beaches, and prefer places such as Margaritaville and Rick’s Café - tourist traps full of people and loud music. They like the fact that there are a lot of people because it ensures that they will find a playmate. At Rick’s café the other day, they met a few teenage girls who chased them around the pool. At Margaritaville, they met three young men who helped the girls arrange a chicken wrestling match. Each girl got on the shoulders of a boy and tried to knock one another off. Fun was had by all.

Thus, although I prefer the secluded spots, I often have to entice the children with the offer of Margaritaville or Rick’s Café to get them out of the house. This is how I found myself at Margaritaville last Saturday afternoon, eating nachos and sipping on margaritas. The beach itself at Margaritaville is stunning - with a turquoise sea and white, powdery sand. But, so is the rest of Seven Mile Beach.

One advantage to Margaritaville is that it has plenty of shelter. So, when the thunderstorms came pounding down, as they often do, we could wait out the storm under shelter. Well, I sought shelter while the girls danced in the rain. There is also a little playground at the Negril Margaritaville, which, it seems, is more fun in the rain.

Once the rain passed, at least I had a table, chairs, and a good view of the beach. I addition, I could observe with fascination the groups of tourists who happened upon Margaritaville that afternoon. I soon tired of that, however. Fortunately, my husband arrived not too long afterwards and I could leave them at Margaritaville and take a long walk along Seven Mile Beach and linger in the more isolated parts.

A Hook, a Fish Line and an Air Mattress: Improvised fishing with the kids in Negril

I am very happy with my daily routine in Negril this summer. For me, this routine involves happy writing each weekday morning, then having lunch with the family, and going to the beach in the afternoons. Being able to swim in transparent waters every afternoon is blissful for me. I have not missed a day at the beach in the six weeks we have been in Negril. Even when it rains, I will at least go for a long walk by the sea when the rain clears.

My three kids, however, have decided that they need more entertainment than simply going to the beach. Their morning routine starts with home schooling for two hours with their tutor, then playing in the yard with their friends until lunch is ready. There are two small children who live in front of us and they often catch butterflies or other small creatures together. My daughters also love to help our neighbor herd his goats and take them out for grass each morning. After lunch, they play video games, read, or play outside or inside. When I ask if they are ready to go to the beach, they often claim they do not want to go. Without exception, they have fun when we get to the beach; so, often the trick lies in getting them there.

Our latest “trick” is the promise of going fishing. The first time the girls went fishing, it was with some friends who invited them to go on a boat early in the morning. That boat trip costs US$50, so that was the only time they did that. Instead, now we rely on my husband, Fernando’s ingenuity, and the kids can go fishing whenever they want, practically for free. This is how it works.

Fernando buys some hooks and fish line for a few cents at the hardware store. They go to the nearby beach and look for sand crabs and snails for bait. Nando sets up the rudimentary hook, line and sinker. Then, he paddles the girls out on our air mattress to where the fish are. We have one of those inflatable air mattresses, and it works great as a raft! (You can see our fishing equipment in the photo behind us!)

The girls put on their face masks which allow them to see the fish underwater. Tatiana and Soraya – my nine year old twin daughters – love fishing like this. You can see when the fish begin to nibble at the bait. When you see them nibbling, you just pull a bit, and there you have a fish. When the girls catch a fish, they yell out in excitement. Nando pulls in the line and puts the fish into a plastic bag that he keeps on the raft. Then, the girls go back in for another fish.

The other day, they caught sixteen little fish, giving us plenty of fresh fish for dinner. The fish are small – so it is quite a bit of work to clean and de-scale all of them. But, it is definitely worth it to have the tasty, fresh fish. Plus, it is our best way to get the kids out of the house - for now, at least. I am sure that soon they will become bored with this and we will have to find a new way to entertain them soon.

Sundays on the Public Beach in Negril, Jamaica

If you are looking for the “real Jamaica,” you will have a hard time finding it in Negril – a touristy town on the westernmost end of Jamaica. That said, there is one beach in Negril where you will find more Jamaicans than foreign tourists – the public beach at the south-westernmost tip of Seven-Mile Beach.

It is quite remarkable that most tourists in Negril tend to stay within a 100-meter radius of their hotels. There are the adventurous few who take it upon themselves to walk up and down Seven-Mile Beach. Some of these tourists make it to the end where the public beach is, but almost none of them swim in this part of the beach. Because of this self-segregation, the public beach almost always has only Jamaicans. People who are not Jamaican at the public beach are almost always expatriates who are living in Negril – usually North American and English women with Jamaican boyfriends.

The public beach is about 200 meters from the closest hotel, thus making it beyond the normal radius of most tourists. It is the closest beach to the Negril River, which, at times, can make the water quite unpleasant. However, most days the water at the public beach is crystal clear, just like the water in the rest of Seven-Mile Beach. Unlike much of the rest of Seven-Mile Beach, the public beach has several trees which offer ample shade.

On Sundays, the public beach is a lively place where local DJs set up enormous speakers that blast out dancehall tunes for the listening pleasure of beachgoers and anyone close enough to hear. Families sit beneath one of the many trees and picnic. Kids jump and play in the water and teenagers show off their gymnastic abilities on the sand.

There is a restaurant/bar on the beach, currently operated by Sanchez, who is from Sav-la-Mar. Sanchez’s place serves up delicious food and ice-cold beverages at a fraction of the price of most places on the beach. You also can try the conch soup which is served by a local man right off of his bicycle. He has a gas tank on the back of the bicycle and a burner on the front, which ensures that the tasty soup is steaming hot all afternoon long.

Last Sunday, we spent a couple of hours at the beach with my kids. They had a great time running around with all of the other children there. This was a nice change, as we often go to the beach in Negril and there are few if any children around.

River Water: Negril’s Dirty Little Secret

In the center of the town of Negril there is a wide river. I imagine once upon a time, long ago, it must have been lovely to swim in the place where the cool river meets the warm sea. Today, however, there is nothing lovely about the Negril River. It is covered with grease and when it pours into the ocean, turns the clear sea waters brown and green. (The river is naturally dark in color due to it passing through peat bogs upstream, yet the motorboats have rendered the waters less pleasant.)

Sometimes the river water stays put and barely affects even the closest beaches. However, after a good rain upstream, the river water pours out into the sea and ruins the water for a few hours. During my month in Negril, I have noticed a few patterns with regard to the river, and I will point those out here.

The river sits at the westernmost tip of Seven Mile Beach. Thus, when it rains even a little bit, it tends to muddy the waters at the public beach just to the north of the river. When it has not rained at all, the public beach is one of the coolest places to hang out in Negril – as it has a laid-back, inexpensive, open-air restaurant with good local food and cold beers, and is where locals are most likely to go for a swim. When the river water stays put, this beach boasts transparent, warm waters. However, when the rain comes, this water takes on a greenish color, and sometimes a smell, making the whole experience quite a bit less pleasant.

The river water rarely makes it down to One Mile Beach, and even less frequently to the north end of Seven Mile Beach where Margaritaville, Sandals, and Coco La Palm are. Because many tourists never leave the pristine beaches of their all-inclusive resorts, many are likely unaware that there even is a river in Negril. It is only when it rains a tremendous amount up in the mountains and in Negril that the river would make it this far. Thus far, I have not seen it happen.

The river does not only flow north, of course. It also makes its way up to the West End of Negril. Close to where we are staying – Silver Star - there is a lovely beach where Canoe Bar sits. One of my favorite things about this beach is that, when you swim out about a hundred meters, you can see the foothills to a mountain range in the distance. The problem, however, is that, during the rainy season, the waters of this beach are often less than pleasant. Whenever it rains, the river water comes to this beach, muddying the waters and bringing lots of floating seaweed with it. Before swimming in these waters, I always check to make sure the river water has not made it down.

Farther up West End Road (or One Love Drive), you come to Xtabi Cliffs. The river water rarely makes it this far. Every so often, in the evenings, the waters at Xtabi get a bit greenish, or the sea brings lots of sea grass. Those times, it is best not to get in the water, as the sea grass brings sea lice, which make you itch. Nevertheless, Xtabi is nearly always nice and the waters there are a clear, turquoise blue.

Rick’s Café sits near the end of West End Road, and thus the river water nearly never makes it this far. So, the waters at Rick’s are always a deep blue color. When the weather is a bit rough, however, the waters at Ricks do get rougher than in other parts, making it a bit difficult to swim.

Negril is renowned for its laid-back atmosphere and clear, transparent waters. At present, those waters are more often transparent than not. However, something really must be done about the Negril River or Negril will lose a whole lot of its charm.

I am no environmental expert, but I am aware of other cases of rivers and other bodies of waters being cleaned, so I am sure it is possible. And, I hope it happens sooner rather than too late. Please note: The state of the South Negril River has been an issue at least since the 1990s, according to this website.

I don’t want to go to the beach today!

I always want to go to the beach. Although we have been in Negril, Jamaica for 22 days, I still must go to the beach at least once every day. Even if it’s just for an hour, I have to see and feel the sea. For me, it is a great privilege to be so close to such an amazing sea and I can’t bear not to go daily.

How, then, is it that my daughters (Tatiana – 9; Soraya – 9 and Raymi – 6) often claim they do not want to go to the beach? Granted, they do have to walk 15 minutes to get there. But, they always have a great time there.

Since they insist daily that they do not want to go to the beach, sometimes we let them stay home. Here in Negril, they usually get up around 6am when the sun rises. Their teacher comes at 8am, and they have two hours of lessons. Actually, that aspect of our life – home schooling – is going the best it has all year. I finally figured out the keys – 1) It has to be early in the morning; 2) It should be for a short, intensive period of time and 3) It is best if the teacher is not me. So, we have hired a college student to give the girls lessons and that is going quite well.

After home schooling, the girls are allowed to play until lunchtime. Sometimes they play in the yard with the children who live across from us. Sometimes they play inside with their Legos or other toys. Other times, I let them watch a movie, play the Internet, or play with their Nintendo DS. Then, we have lunch together. By the time lunch is over, it is 2pm.

At 2pm, it is too hot for me to work anymore, and I usually am mentally drained and ready to go to the beach. Most days, we find a way to convince the kids to come to the beach. Other times we let them stay home and I will just go for a long walk on the beach alone.

On Tuesday, I was able to convince Tatiana to go with me to the beach. We walked the 15 minutes from our cottage to the beach. When we got to the beach, we saw that the close beach was polluted with river water, so we decided to walk farther down to the clean part. Tatiana and I had a nice walk. Along the way, I explained to her the history of slavery, as, for some reason, she was asking about it. Once I got to the end of the story, she wanted to hear stories of times that I had embarrassed myself. I thought of a few.

When we got to the nice part where the water is transparent, Tatiana and I went for a swim. Unfortunately, after about five minutes in the water, Tatiana began to fuss that something had bitten her leg. I rushed her out of the water and found that she had two wounds on her leg. They were about 1 cm. across and one was deeper than the other. The deeper one was bleeding quite a bit. A boatman came over and went back for his First Aid kit. He put a bandage on her leg and the bleeding stopped. No one seemed to have any idea what could have happened to her. We were in fairly deep water, so it is unlikely that a piece of glass cut her. I suppose it could have been a fish bite, but the marks were so far apart. Needless to say, we went home. The next day, Tatiana did not want to go to the beach.

Fortunately, Soraya and Raymi did want to go. Raymi even agreed to walk. This was remarkable, because Raymi almost never wants to walk. So, Soraya, Raymi, and I set off on our one-mile hike to the cliffs at Xtabi. To entertain the kids on the way, I told them a variation of the story of the Loch Ness Monster. I told the story such that the existence (or not) of the Loch Ness Monster remained doubtful. However, Soraya wanted a happy ending so made me change the story such that the two main characters finally got to take a picture of the Loch Ness Monster and everyone believed them that it really existed.

When we got to Xtabi cliffs, the sun was behind the clouds and it was cooler than usual. We swam for a bit, but, it began to drizzle. Determined to stay seaside a bit longer, I decided that we would order some food at Xtabi. I ordered a hamburger and a conch burger – which was quite tasty. The food took a long time to come out, and Raymi and Soraya played darts while we were waiting. I used the time to sit atop one of the cliffs and contemplate the beauty of the sea.

After we ate, the sun peeked from behind the clouds and we got back into the sea. Other guests arrived and Soraya and Raymi quickly made friends. The highlight of the afternoon, however, was that Raymi spotted an octopus! There was an octopus by one of the cliffs, trying to scale the side of the cliff using its suction cups. It was quite a sight! Eventually, however, it fell back into the sea.

The girls and I snorkeled and spent some time in the caves before deciding to head back home. We walked back and talked about all sorts of things on the way back. They wanted me to tell them a story, but I was having trouble being creative. One story a day is enough for me!

When we got home, Tatiana was quite upset that she had missed out on the excitement. So, perhaps today we will have an easier time getting the girls to go to the beach!

Two of my favorite ways to relax in Negril

We have now been in Negril for two full weeks, and I have two favorite ways to relax in this laid-back town.

The first is at Xtabi - which I raved about in my last post. If you go to the left side of Xtabi, and swim across the clear blue sea, you will find a small cave - about 20 meters long and 10 meters wide. You can swim right in and hoist yourself up onto a rock that has been smoothed out by centuries of waves crashing on to it.

I love to sit on that rock, inside of the cool cave and listen to the waves crashing into the cave. The waves crash onto the rock and the warm water tickles my toes. The waves crash behind me, making reverberating, echoing sounds throughout the cave. I can sit on the rock for a good while, thinking about life and the beauty of mother nature.

For a while, I might reflect on mother nature, on the centuries-old coral imprints hanging above me, on the life of the stingrays and tropical fish below me, on what might be beyond the horizon that fades away into a blue mist. Then, I will get to thinking about my own life, my own hopes and dreams. Even something as mundane as my plans for the next day is good food for thought inside this cave. Finally, I will tire of being alone in the cave, and will swim my way back out into the sunshine, temporarily blinded by the glaring sun.

My other favorite way to reflect on life is to walk down seven-mile beach just before dusk on an overcast afternoon. This is the rainy season, so it rainshowers for a bit many an afternoon. This leaves the beach nearly empty. All of the tourists flee and the vendors also disappear. For me, however, this is the perfect time to walk and walk and walk down seven mile beach without having to worry about getting a sunburn or heat stroke and without the constant offers for a boat ride or jet ski tour.

When the sky is overcast in Negril, it almost is never fully covered with clouds. So, you have bits of blue sky to look at. And, the horizon constantly changes with the moving cloud formations. As dusk nears, the horizon begins to show its wide array of sunset colors.

I walk along the beach barefoot, allowing the warm sea to caress my toes. I think about all I have done for the day, the week, and the year. I ponder a theoretical question I have. I make plans for what I will do if and when a friend comes to visit me in this little piece of heaven.

These are two of my favorite ways to think, reflect, meditate, and relax in Negril.

Seven Reasons the Cliffs are Better than Seven Mile Beach in Negril

Negril is divided into two areas – the Seven Mile Beach and the Cliffs. Our cottage – Silver Star – is right between the two areas, giving us great access to both. From my front step, it is a twenty minute walk to either Seven Mile Beach or Xtabi – my favorite place to hang out at the cliffs.

The Seven Mile Beach is great because it's, well, seven miles of sandy beaches. However, after our first few days of sea, sun, and more sun, we decided to try out the cliffs area. We haven't been back to the beach since. This past week, it was all cliffs, every day. Why do we like the cliffs? Let me count the ways.

1) At Xtabi, where we have been going, there are far fewer people. Many an afternoon, we have the whole area to ourselves. (Note: Rick's cafe – another cliff spot – does NOT have this benefit.) If you like to swim in the sea alone, Xtabi is the place.

2) Walking to and from the cliffs, there are far fewer people trying to sell you something. On the beach, you can barely take two steps without someone trying to get you to jet ski, go for a boat ride, or buy some crafts. At the cliffs, there are far fewer sellers.

3) The sea is clearer at the cliffs. When it does not rain for a few days, Seven Mile Beach boasts clear waters. At the cliffs, the water is clear every day, even when the water is relatively rough and it has been raining.

4) There is more shade at the cliffs. We have found a couple of spots with a bit of shade on the beach. But, it does not come close to the tranquility and coolness you feel when you sit in a cave at the cliffs and feel the sea tickling your toes.

5) Cliff jumping is fun. Or, at least it looks fun, as I have only jumped off of the smaller cliffs. But, those people jumping off of the big ones look as though they are having a good time doing so.

6) The snorkeling is better. You can snorkel on Seven Mile Beach on a good day. But, at the cliffs, you will see much, much more marine life. All you have to do is get in the water, put your mask down, and look around you. The snorkeling is amazing.

7) It's cooler at the cliffs. Because of the ocean breeze blowing on you at the top of the cliffs, it is quite a bit cooler out of the water, especially if you can find a bit of shade.

We will be in Negril for another two months, and I am sure we will go back many times to Seven Mile Beach. But, there are many reasons to stay close to the cliffs.

Negril, Jamaica: Sea, Sand and Fun

We have been in Negril, Jamaica for nearly a week now.

We are staying in an inexpensive cottage called Silver Star. It is located a fifteen minute walk from the famous Seven Mile Beach and a five-minute walk from a smaller beach that is great for snorkeling. As someone who loves to be able to walk to the beach and on the beach, this is fantastic.

The accommodations are quite modest, but they are clean and comfortable, so we are happy. The small size of the cottage just means that we have to make sure and keep it tidy and keep everything in its place.

It is very hot here in Negril so we take advantage of the relatively cool mornings to do work and do household tasks. I spend my mornings writing in my office (whish is just a separate hotel room) and the children are doing their schoolwork in the mornings. We have hired a tutor to give the girls lessons, and that is working out great so far! After lunch, we are all free to spend the afternoons as we like.

Of course, most days we go to the beach. If you can believe it, some days the kids complain about going to the beach. Mostly, they are not keen on the 15 minute walk in the hot sun. However, once we arrive at the sea, they have a blast.

The first day we got to Negril, the sea was amazing. It was absolutely transparent, even up to about 30 feet deep. Snorkeling in that water was fantastic. However, the next day it rained and the water has not been the same since. There are two reasons for this. One reason is that when it rains the sea gets more turbulent and brings the sand up into the water, making it less transparent. The other, less pleasant, reason, is that the rain means that the muddy, dirty river water gets into the sea, turning it a brownish color.

We have found thus far that we can walk or take a taxi about another mile down the beach - away from the river - and get to the clean part when the river comes into the sea. Hopefully it will not rain much and we can enjoy the transparent water once again. Honestly, this year, after seeing so many amazing beaches, we are getting harder to please!

None of the beaches we have seen so far in Negril have any waves to speak of. The girls complain that this makes it boring. However, it also makes it easier for us as we do not have to worry about the girls being pulled out to sea. Yesterday, I went snorkeling with Tatiana and Soraya - my nine-year old twin daughters - and we were able to get pretty far out without me being worried. However, as it was our first time, I did not stay too long. I was worried they (or I) might get tired.

I am looking forward to spending the next two months in Negril, and, slowly but surely, getting to know the rest of the Seven Mile Beach.