Family Vacation in Saint Cyprien, France

We arrived on Saturday in Saint Cyprien, which is in the Roussillon region of southern France.


We are staying at the Hotel du Port, which has a great view of the … you guessed it: the port!



We love French food!!

First of all, it is great to be in southern France, where the food is fantastic. I haven’t been able to stop eating the delicious baguettes, pains de campagne, peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, cheeses, and pains au chocolat. I also have had my fill of champagne and red and white wine in the few days since we have been here. So far, my favorite cheeses are Raclette and Pyrenees and I really enjoyed the bottle of Faugères red wine my husband picked up. I even tried some of the saucisson, and it was delicious!

The beach at Saint Cyprien Plage!

Saint Cyprien is a beach town, and in the summertime, fills up with beachgoers. It does have a lovely beach, with cool, clean, clear Mediterranean waters. The beach in Saint Cyprien is nice, but nothing super amazing. I personally prefer beaches with greenery, and the beach here is pure sand. I do like the view of the mountains in the background: you can see the Pyrenees in the distance. I also appreciate the fact that the beach is completely calm on some days and has waves on other, more windy days. I also like the length of the beach. It is about 1.5 miles long, and, late in the evening, it is possible to have a nice, relaxing walk along the beach.



Because of the lack of shade on the beach, I tend not to spend more than a couple of hours there each day. My kids often get bored going to the beach every day, so I decided to splurge a bit and buy them an inflatable boat, complete with rows! That was a wise choice, as it is much easier to extract them from the house with the promise of a boat ride! Otherwise, my ten-year old twins and seven-year old would be content staying at home all day playing on their iPods and laptops.




While we are here, we are trying to find a good balance between relaxing and getting around to see the rest of the region. There are more natural and beautiful beaches in neighboring towns that we plan to explore. And, the Pyrenees mountains are absolutely amazing. We are thinking of ways to spend more time there during our stay here.

From Barcelona to St. Cyprien, with a Pit Stop in Girona

On Saturday, we left Barcelona to go to St. Cyprien, France. We thought we would stop in Girona on the way, as I have heard it is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. I am very glad we decided to stop.



The train ride from Barcelona to Girona was packed, standing room only. We boarded at Clot, meaning we did not get seats. Next time we travel to Girona on a Saturday, we will make sure to leave from Sants and get there early!

With a little persistence, however, I managed to get a seat! I spotted a man on the train with his luggage in the seat next to him. Not wanting to stand for the 90 minute ride, I asked him if the seat was occupied. He said it was, with his luggage. I pointed out that he could put his luggage in the aisle where I was standing and I could sit down. He agreed, and I sat down, with Raymi on my lap. Two seats for people, and one less for luggage!

The train ride went well. It was short, and the scenery was quite nice along the way. My ten year old twins were thoroughly entertained with their iPod touches, and I read stories on my Kindle to my seven year old. Thank goodness for electronic devices!

Once we arrived in Girona, we ventured out towards the historic center in search of a “menu” – an inexpensive prix-fixe lunch menu. The train station is about five blocks from the historic center. We made it to the famous Pont Pedra, and turned right towards the Plaza Catalunya. Close to there, we found a restaurant with a decent menu at a reasonable price – 13 euros. As a bonus, they had pizza!

The restaurant was Catalonian, the bartender Chinese, and the server Cuban – quite the multi-ethnic place. Nando ordered a plate of butifarra with kiwi as an appetizer, and I had a tortilla with salmon and garlic. Mine was quite a bit more interesting. We both had merluza or lluç – a white fish- for the main course. It was grilled to perfection and quite tasty. For dessert, we ordered chocolate cake and tira misu, which the girls devoured.

In Spain, a lunch menu comes with wine, so the waiter put two bottles of wine on the table. Nando and I made it through a bottle and a half of wine, meaning we were in quite a good mood after lunch. A nice long walk was just what we needed to walk off the wine. Girona is the perfect town to walk around in.

Girona was built hundreds of years ago, with narrow streets. One thing I have learned by spending the summer in Catalonia is that narrow streets are much cooler than wide ones. Tall buildings on narrow streets provide ample shade and a cool breeze. This made walking up the many stairs around the historic center much more pleasant.


I walked with my daughters through the old town and up to the Cathedral. The Cathedral is an impressive structure, with a few flights of white stone stairs leading up to it. Short on time, we didn’t go inside. A couple of hours in Girona was just enough time to walk around the narrow streets, up and down the old staircases, and through the narrow arches. As a treat, I took the girls to a “2 euro” store, which is kind of like a dollar store, but where everything costs 2 euros – about 3 dollars.

At the 2 euro store, Soraya got a straw hat, Tatiana a keychain flashlight, and Raymi a small toy keychain. I even got a new wallet, as I lost mine in Sitges a few weeks ago.



Soon, it was time to go back to the train station. Four hours in Girona was pretty short, especially because of our long lunch. But, it was definitely a great way to break up the trip from Barcelona to France.

The train took us to Cerbere, and from there we took another train to Elne. In Elne, my sister in law picked us up to take us to St. Cyprien, where she lives. The ride along the northernmost coast of Spain was very scenic. We made it to St. Cyprien, a lovely seaside town, by 7pm, where my sister-in-law had prepared a delicious seafood stew for us.

The quest for the perfect Catalan meal

You’d think it would be easy to find a good meal in Spain. For some reason, I have not had the best of luck with eating out during my time in Spain. The places I’ve been, the pintxos have been soggy, the patatas bravas greasy and the fideua salty. On Friday, however, I finally lucked out! I had a fantastic lunch at Hotel Amrey Sant Pau across from the beautiful Hospital de la Santa Creu i de Sant Pau.
Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau

Here’s how it went down. After a lovely visit to La Sagrada Familia temple, I decided to walk over to the Hospital to check it out, and look for a restaurant along the way. As I walked along Avinguda Gaudi, I passed by each of the restaurants there, thinking they were most likely tourist traps. For me, this was evidenced by two things: 1) the abundance of people sitting at tables looking at maps of Barcelona as they waited for their meals and 2) the colorful signs indicating they indeed had paella – one of the most well-known Spanish meals.

I walked along Avinguda Gaudi, admiring the lampposts and architecture until I reached the turnoff point. Still no restaurant. I then walked alongside the Hospital where I could see the colorful roof of the hospital. There, I only found places that looked a bit too greasy spoon to be good. The thing is, once I start investing in looking for a good place, I become obsessed with it being perfect. That makes the search even harder. Finally, I reached the end of the block of Carrer de Sant Antoni where the hospital ends, and turned left on Carrer de Sant Quinti. There, I saw the Hotel Amrey, which had a nice menu printed on see-through, waxy paper outside.

The menu looked promising, with carpaccio de bacalao and escalivada catalana with melted goat cheese for appetizers, and grilled salmon and fideau negra for the main courses. It was a hotel, however, so I paused, as hotels often do not have good restaurants. I peeked inside and it was tastefully decorated, with wallpaper made to look as if there were bookshelves along the wall. However, I overheard American college students inside, and decided it might just be a tourist trap as well. I kept walking, but then told myself that those students might just have been lucky enough to find a good place. Plus, I was tired and hungry, so I relented. I am glad I did.


Escalivada Catalana


The menu – the fixed price lunch – included an appetizer, a main course, a dessert, bread, and a beverage, all for 11 euros. I chose the escalivada catalana with melted goat cheese for an appetizer. Escalivada is fire-roasted red peppers and eggplants drenched in olive oil. It was delicious.

For the main course, I decided on the fideau negra – thin noodles cooked with a mixture of spices, drenched in squid ink, and served with shrimp and calamari. This plate is typically served with aioli – garlic mayonnaise – on the side. Scrumptious. I accompanied my meal with two glasses of the tasty house red wine.

Fideau Negra


For dessert, I almost went for the chocolate mousse, as I am a chocolate lover. But, I decided I should continue the theme of having a typical Catalan lunch, and went for the pastel de crema catlana. This is a pie with a cake-like crust, filled with Catalan vanilla custard, and topped with dark chocolate flakes and cinnamon. Divine. I had to finish the meal with a café cortadito – an espresso with a dash of foam.
cafe cortadito and pastel de crema catalana

After the meal, I relaxed on one of the comfortable armchairs at the front of the restaurant where I finished my coffee and made plans for the rest of my afternoon.

Tatiana, Soraya, and Raymi's photo journals: June 15, 2011, Barcelona

I thought a neat way of getting my daughters to record some of their experiences in Barcelona would be through photo journals. Thus, this first installment when I was able to squeeze a couple of sentences out of them about our trip to Barcelona.

Tatiana’s photo journal: June 15, 2011



This is a picture of me, Soraya and Raymi when we were at the pigeon place looking at big bubbles and popping them. I was happy because I was having fun.

Soraya’s photo journal: June 15, 2011



Barcelona has a pigeon place where I caught pigeons with my bare hands and seeds. I had fun. The seagulls killed and ate the pigeons. We tried to stop them because we did not want them to kill the pigeons.

Raymi’s photo journal: June 15, 2011


This is my cousin Alice. I like Alice because she is nice. Alice came to visit us in Barcelona with her mother, Linda, and her sister, Michelle. She went back before my other cousin Michelle went back because she had to go to school. I think she looks like Hannah Montana.

Making Lemonade out of Lemons: An unexpected trip to Vallvidrera, Spain

On Sunday, we ended up in a small town in the hills just outside Barcelona called Vallvidrera. We were on our way to Tibidabo, but got on the wrong train and decided to make the best of it. I am glad we did. Here’s what happened.

On Sunday morning, I left our apartment in Sitges with two of my three daughters – Tatiana, aged 10, and Raymi, aged 7. My other daughter, Soraya, stayed with my husband, Nando, in Barcelona at his brother’s house. The plan was that we would meet up on Sunday afternoon and spend the day together in Barcelona. Just as we were leaving Sitges, however, my husband called to let me know we should come to his brother’s house instead.

The idea of hanging out at in my brother-in-law’s living room on a beautiful Sunday did not sound appealing, so we decided I would spend the day in Barcelona with Tatiana and Raymi and meet up with Nando and Soraya at Barceloneta Beach in the afternoon. That meant Raymi, Tatiana and I had to decide where we would spend our day. On the 30-minute RENFE train ride from Sitges to Barcelona, I studied my guidebook and decided we would go somewhere in Gracia, starting with Tibidabo. I didn’t actually want to go to the amusement park itself, but thought it would be fun to ride the tram and the funicular with the girls.

So, we got off the RENFE train at Passeig de Gracia and tried to get on the FGC train to Tibidabo. That was not as easy as it looks on the map. You see, Barcelona has three separate rail lines: The Metro, the RENFE, and the FGC. The RENFE goes long distances, mostly south and north and the FGC is a regional train that mostly goes east, away from the sea and up into the mountains. And, the Metro is the underground that goes around Barcelona. We finally figured out that we had to go to a different train station to get the FGC.

Funicular that goes up to Vallvidrera
Thus, we took the Metro to the FGC Station. Right when we got to the FGC station, the train was there, waiting for us. We hopped on the train that said “Line 7” on the front and were pleased we didn’t have to wait long for a train. A few stops later, I noticed that we were not on Line 7, but on Line 6, and had made it all the way to Las Tres Torres. Oops! We jumped off the train and I thought of going back to get the train to Tibidabo. But, by that time we had been on different trains for well over an hour and wanted to get to our destination.

I looked at the FGC map and saw a station called “Peu de Funicular.” I thought to myself that that station might have a funicular as well and might even lead somewhere nice. On a whim, I decided we would go there. Luckily, the “Peu de Funicular” stop did have a funicular and, as I expected, my daughters thought the funicular was very cool! They even compared it to a roller coaster. We took the Funicular up to Vallvidrera Superior, and found a nice little town set in gorgeous mountain scenery.

The town of Vallvidrera is very hilly, and has lots of stairs. It also has amazing views of Barcelona below as well as the mountains above and below. We walked around a bit, but not much, as the girls were not too keen on the stairs. We found a nice homestyle restaurant and went inside for lunch.

Tatiana and Raymi in Vallvidrera
The lunch was decent. I ordered three plates: roasted chicken with fries, pasta, and a salad. The pasta was a big hit with the girls, and we ate most of the other two plates. I was particularly pleased to see that when I asked for a glass of house wine, I got a carafe and it was only 85 cents! After lunch, we looked around a bit more and made our way back to the funicular, and then back onto the FGC train. Later, I looked online and saw there is a small hostel in Vallvidrera. I will keep that in mind as a possible place to stay in Barcelona, as it looks clean and inexpensive, and I really did like the town.

On the way back, we had a lot more luck with transportation. The FGC train took us all the way to Plaza Catalunya. From there, we took the 59 bus straight to Barceloneta. I was impressed with my navigation skills on the way back from Vallvidrera. There was lots of room for improvement, anyway. At any rate, despite the long train rides, my daughters seemed to enjoy our outing today. They were even happier to get to the beach at Barceloneta!

Barceloneta was also nicer than I expected, full of vibrant Sunday afternoon activity and the beckoning Mediterranean Sea. It turned out to be a perfect day: a lovely lunch in a mountain village followed by a dip in the cool sea. The fact that it doesn’t get dark until 9pm in Barcelona in June certainly helped us to make the most of a long day.

Raymi in Barceloneta

Barceloneta

Parc de la Ciutadella with the family: Boat rides, parrots, a fountain and a fabulous picnic

When I showed my 10-year old daughter, Soraya, the picture of the fountain in Parc de la Ciutadella, she exclaimed: “I want to go there!” Thus we set out on Thursday afternoon for the Park to see the amazing fountain.
Parc de la Ciutadella Fountain
We took the RENFE train straight from Sitges to Estaçao de França, which is less than a block away from the entrance to the Parc de la Ciutadella. On the train ride, of course, the girls wanted to hear a story. I have been reading Uncle Tom’s Cabin, as it was free to download onto my Kindle. So, I told them the story of how and why Eliza, George, and Harry escaped from slavery and made their way to Ohio on the Underground Railroad. Remarkably, they found the story fascinating and had all sorts of questions to ask.

I finished the story just as our 45-minute train ride was coming to an end. We got off the train and walked into the park. When we walked through the grand entrance, the girls immediately noticed that the leafy trees were full of small green parrots. We walked along a tree-lined path and looked to see what other birds we could find before we got to our picnic spot.

We had come prepared, and had a delicious picnic. We brought baguettes, longaniza, arugula, and goat cheese for sandwiches. We also had my favorite kind of potato chips – olive oil chips, and flan and chocolate cake for dessert. Nando and I drank red wine and we had water and juice for the girls. Now, that’s what I call a picnic!

After stuffing our faces, the girls ran around the small playground while Nando and I relaxed and finished off the wine.

We then walked around a bit more and the girls saw a lake with paddle boats. They begged to get on the boats, and promised to be good for the rest of the day if we would pay the 10 euros for 30 minutes on a boat. We relented and Nando and the girls got on a paddle boat while I wandered off to explore the rest of the park on my own.

Tatiana, Raymi, Nando and Soraya on the rowboat
Walking around, I found the Catalonian Parliament and the famous fountain Gaudi designed. The entrance to the Parliament was blocked off, and there were protestors gathering together to express their disapproval of the current government. Once the 30 minute boat ride was over, I took the girls to see the fountain. Tatiana, Raymi, and I walked up the stairs to the top of the fountain, while Nando and Soraya stayed at the bottom and relaxed at the park café.

Parliament Building, Parc de la Ciutadella

We left the park through the Arc de Triomphe exit. From the Arc de Triomphe, it is about a 15-minute walk over to Plaza Catalunya. Of course, the girls wanted to go back there to feed the pigeons, as that is their favorite thing to do in Barcelona. So, we made our way past buildings, cafes, and shops to Plaza Catalunya, where we stayed until dusk.





Staying until dusk meant that we got back to Sitges too late to take the bus up the hill to our house. So, we had to walk up the hill home. To make the walk a bit more bearable, I bought the girls a snack and a bottle of water at a store on the way. And, I told them a bit more of Uncle Tom’s Cabin. This time, I told them the story of how Tom got sold into slavery at St. Clare’s plantation and how his and his wife’s opinion of how slaves should be treated differed. I made the story stretch out just long enough for us to get home without too many protestations from the kids.

Once home, we were thoroughly tired and went straight to sleep.

Las Ramblas and Plaza Catalunya with Three Kids: The endless joy of feeding pigeons

On Monday, our family got on the train and went to check out the famous Plaza Catalunya and Las Ramblas.

As usual, my ten-year-old twins insisted they did not want to leave our apartment in Sitges and go into Barcelona. I reminded them that they often tell me they don’t want to do things, but end up having fun anyway. Finally, we were able to drag them out of the house and down the hill to the train station.

Our new tradition has become that, if the girls have to walk somewhere, they don’t mind so long as I tell them a story. In order to be able to tell the girls stories, I have to make sure I am reading books. I recently read Jodi Picoult’s Handle with Care, as it was lying around our rented apartment. So, I recounted to the girls the story of how a severely disabled girl’s mother had to make a decision as to whether or not she should sue her best friend, an obstetrician, for wrongful birth. Not exactly a children’s story, but they seemed to like it anyway.

I continued the story as we rode the train into Barcelona. We got off at Sants and transferred trains to take the train directly to Plaza Catalunya. When we finally got to the plaza, the girls were more than pleased to see that the Plaza is full of pigeons. Now, I know pigeons are dirty little creatures, but my kids absolutely love feeding them, and especially, feeding them from their hands if they can. So, I let them do it, but insist they wash their hands thoroughly afterwards.

Plaza Catalunya

After an hour or so of feeding pigeons, we made our way down Las Ramblas. The kids did not want to leave the pigeons, but I promised them there would be human statues on Las Ramblas, so they consented. On Las Ramblas, there were several human statues, as well as little stands that sell pets. That should have been more than enough entertainment for the kids, but they really wanted to go back and see the pigeons. After eating gofres (waffles), ice cream and granizado (frozen lemonade), we decided that my husband, Nando, would take the kids back to the pigeons, while I explored a bit of Las Ramblas myself.


Quatre Gats: Placa Reial

They made their way back, and I went down Las Ramblas, stopping off at Placa Reial to have a look at one of Gaudi’s creations: the Quatre Gats, and then making my way down to the old port. As I walked around by myself, I was taken back to my early twenties, when I used to travel around alone and explore European cities. I strolled along the streets of Barri Gotic, and it was just like old times, except for that I took note of where all the playgrounds were, with the intention of bringing the kids back to them later.


When I got back to the Plaza Catalunya, the girls continued to be fully entertained by the pigeons. Nando had found some musician friends, and they were playing songs together on one of the benches. I stood by Nando to listen to the music, while keeping an eye on the girls. Listening to Nando and his newfound friends play “Moliendo Café” took me back to all the times we have hung out in Latin America and gotten together to play music. I don’t play any instruments myself, but love those moments of spontaneous music and dance.


Old Port

While we were singing and dancing, there was something else going on in Plaza Catalunya. This happens to be the place where the youth protestors have taken over. At 7pm, the protestors announced that they would get together in small groups and come up with proposals. I sat near a group that was discussing the external debt. The conversation was in Catalan, but I understood enough to learn that there was an argument going on between the majority who thought Spain should default on the debt and take care of its people, and one older person who insisted that was an unrealistic proposal.


The youth protestors have really set themselves up in the Plaza Catalunya, with a variety of stands focusing on different issues, a kitchen, and an information booth. I found most impressive the way they have laid boards on trees to sleep in. They also have strung a huge net between trees where several people can sleep.


In addition to the protestors, the musicians, and the vendors, there are also homeless people who live in the Plaza. I wondered to myself how the takeover of the Plaza by the youth has affected the homeless people who used to stake out the Plaza as their own. To me, it seemed as if the homeless people and the protestors seemed to keep apart. There didn’t seem to be much interaction between them. The sociologist in me became very curious about what happens to people when they find themselves in the streets all day every day, and what new social relations and divisions occur. I didn’t stay long enough to figure it all out, just long enough to realize that it would be interesting to explore.


Eventually, we all got hungry and I wanted to try one of the small restaurants with a terrace in Barri Gotic. We found one that looked reasonable. Nando and I ordered a fideau with seafood and got a pizza for the kids. The food was decent, but unremarkable. I did enjoy my glass of cava and Nando his glass of red wine. Now, we were fully tired and it was time to take the train back home to Sitges.


It was a long ride, made longer by the fact that we took the metro instead of the train back to Sants, missed the fast train, and got back too late to take a bus up the hill. We made it up the hill back to our house with a story. I had told the children all the stories I had read, so had to make up a story to get us back up the hill. I had no idea what I would say, but got to talking and was able to weave a tale that kept them from complaining about walking 2 kilometers up a hill at 11pm.


Once home, we all easily fell asleep until the next morning.
Raymi and the Pigeons



Rain, Long Walks, Immigrants, and Expatriates: Another Day in Sitges

Tuesday was a rainy day in Sitges. That put a damper on my plans to spend the afternoon walking along the beach. I like to take long walks along the beach, as these walks allow me to process all that is going through my mind. I find long strolls to be therapeutic. When I can put one foot in front of the other and not have to think about where I am going or what time I have to be there, my thoughts flow freely. If I am having trouble making a decision or figuring out a problem, a long walk usually does the trick.

On Tuesday, the rain came in stops and starts, which at least permitted me to take the 15-minute walk down the hill from Vallpineda, where we are staying, to the historic center of Sitges.


Just as I made it down the hill to the center of town, the rain began to come down again. Just three blocks from the beach, I had to seek refuge under an umbrella at L’Aixeta Café. When I sat down, I watched people hurry along under umbrellas. Others stood under awnings, waiting for the rain to pass. Still others braved the downpour, with or without rain jackets or ponchos.

Unable to walk without getting soaked, I decided to use another strategy to process the myriad thoughts running through my mind. I pulled out a pen and began to write down my thoughts. As the rain cleared and my thoughts flowed onto paper, I felt a sense of relief. Perhaps I would be able to walk along the beach. If not, I could write and reflect on life and write about it.

As I paused to take in the scene, I noticed how many foreigners, and how many languages, there are in Sitges. There were four Chinese men chatting and smoking in the entrance to the café. Two women walked by talking in Quechua. A variety of German, French, and British tourists strolled by. The couple at the table next to me conversed in Catalan, and two older women hurried by chatting in Spanish.

Sitges is in Catalunya, meaning that many people’s native language is Catalan. People from other parts of Spain also reside here, and speak Spain. Sitges, like the rest of Barcelona, is also home to many Latin American immigrants, who come here primarily to work in low-wage jobs. Some of these immigrants speak Spanish, and others are indigenous and have Quechua as their native tongue. Sitges is also home to a large number of expatriates – Europeans and Americans who have made their homes here.

Wait, why are Latin Americans in Sitges called immigrants, and Europeans expatriates? Technically, an immigrant is a person who intends to settle in a country other than his or her birth, whereas an expatriate is simply someone who lives in another country. However, many Latin American immigrants fully intend to return to their countries of birth, and many European expatriates marry locals and purchase retirement homes in their adopted countries. The connotations of the terms certainly are distinct. At any rate, this could be a topic worth exploring further!