Guatemala City: A Capital of Contrasts

Guatemala City is an urban capital with over one million residents. It is divided into 22 zones – which range from the historic city center which comprises Zone 1 to the upscale Zone 10 to “red zones” such as Zone 18 – which suffer from high levels of crime and violence. Like many Latin American cities, Guatemala City is a city of contrasts, from upscale malls in Zone 10 to dilapidated historic buildings in Zone 1 to overcrowded, derelict housing in Zone 18.

Zone 10 - where we are staying - has at least two ultramodern malls as well as a pedestrian plaza full of upscale restaurants and shops. There is also a mall in Zone 18, but it is not nearly as luxurious. And, it does not have a glass elevator and a restaurant with an aquarium inside.

The Patio in Hotel Uxlabil

Oakland Mall - Zone 10

We are staying in Uxlabil Hotel - an eco-hotel on the edges of Zone 10. It lies in the Colonia Oakland – a gated community with only one entrance and exit. This community is full of trees, brand new houses with lavish architecture, and fancy cars lining the streets. Colonia Oakland is a sanctuary in the city - with abundant greenery, chirping birds, and beautiful flowers.

Walking through Colonia Oakland, you could easily imagine you are not in Guatemala City. There are only a few hints that give it away:  the high gates in front of many of the residence, the security guards stationed at the gates, the women making tortillas in the store at the entrance, and the various maids walking dogs and children down the street.

In Zone 1, however, you have no doubt that you are in Guatemala City. The Plaza lies at the center of Zone 1, and boasts colonial architecture along with a few vendors of various trinkets. In general, Zone 1 is interspersed with small houses and amazing, formerly grandiose colonial buildings. After checking out the Plaza, I had lunch at Chikach – a small vegetarian, organic café, located at Calle 4-24, Zone 1. Chikach has a courtyard garden inside and delicious organic food. After lunch, I walked about a mile towards the edge of Zone 1 – towards the Casa del Migrante on Fifteenth Avenue.

Plaza Central - Zone 1

Plaza Central - Tyler purchasing a bracelet

An African-American friend of mine accompanied me on the walk from Chickach to the Casa del Migrante. At one point, she said to me – “I think we are causing a spectacle” – as everyone stared at us walking down the street. The area we were in was still fairly close to the center, but as we got to the edges of Zone 1 – towards Fifteenth Avenue – we were clearly beyond the normal tourist territory. There are very few white people in Guatemala City, even fewer back people, and it is even more uncommon to see a black and white person walking down the street together.

We weren’t sure how safe it was in the center. However, my friend and I agreed that most people were just looking at us with curiosity and it was pretty unlikely for anything to happen.

We took the Transmetro downtown from Zone 10. But, we had to walk about 2 miles from Oakland to the Transmetro station. Thus, we decided to take a cab back. Whereas the Transmetro only cost us 1 Quetzal each, the taxi was 50 Quetzales. The difference in price between the taxi and the bus gives you an idea of how unequal the city is.

As we drove through Zones, 1, 2, and 4 to get back to Zone 10, we marveled at the differences between the distinct parts of the city. It is only a few miles from Zone 1 to Zone 10, but you feel as if you are in a different world.