Driving from Cusco to Puno – 400 kilometers across the Altiplano

The drive from Cusco to Puno took us all day, with two stops along the way at Sicuani and the Hot Springs of Occobamba. We left Cusco at 9:45am and didn’t arrive in Puno until 6pm. It probably took us about six hours of driving.

The first part of the drive is in a valley along the Rio Vilcanota. This part of drive is flat – you stay at about 3000 meters above sea level for most of the way. The Vilcanota River affords a scenic view for most of the way.

Vilacanota River

Going up towards the altiplano

We stopped in Sicuani for lunch, to buy a few provisions, and to fill up our gas tank. The market in Sicuani is colorful, and we had a tasty lunch just across the street from the market with minestrone soup and a small piece of fried trout for S/3.50 – less than US$2. Although in Sicuani for just a short time, we left with the impression that it is a friendly place.

Fruit market at Sicuani

Shortly after leaving Sicuani, we began to go up to higher elevation. About 15 minutes outside of Sicuani, we came upon a site with hot springs. None of us really wanted to get wet, as it was quite cold, but we stopped to have a look. I was intrigued by the sign “Smallest Volcano in the World,” and we paid the S/2 to get in and see it. The hot springs turned out to be quite nice and were full of local visitors, even on a Monday afternoon. The hot springs have a eucalyptus sauna, mud baths, hot springs showers, and communal and private hot tubs. Although tempted, we did not get in, but did have a look at the “volcano” as well as the bridge made of ropes.

The smallest volcano in the world

Aguas Calientes de Occobamba - 15 km after Sicuani

Enjoying the smallest volcano in the world

The kids enjoyed watching the bubbling water come out of the volcano and sliding back down the rock sides. They also liked going over the rope bridge, which leads to a small tunnel on the other side. I decided to get on the bridge, after the girls there assured me that no one had ever fallen off. I have to admit I was pretty scared to cross, especially as it started to swing.

Tatiana in the tunnel on the other side of the rope bridge

Bridge made of ropes at Occobamba

Girls playing on rope bridge

The girls enjoying the rope bridge

After the hot springs, we drove on towards Juliaca. After passing the Abra la Raya at 4338 meters above sea level, we were clearly on the altiplano. The good thing about being on the altiplano is that the road is largely flat, with golden fields; snow-capped peaks; red, gray, and brown mountains; and huge blue skies all the way.

The road gets flat on the altiplano

After driving and driving, we finally came to Juliaca, which is 40 kilometers from Puno. As it was getting late, we drove right through Juliaca, hoping to get to Puno before nightfall. It was a busy and colorful city, with plenty of moto taxis as well as bicycle taxis.

Juliaca at rush hour - bikes and carts everywhere

When we finally made it to Puno, the sun had just set and we began to look for a hotel. The first two we checked were full, but we were able to get a room at the Plaza Mayor. It’s more expensive than the hotels we usually stay in, so were treated to the luxury of heating, carpet, and a for-real hot shower where the water doesn’t run out after the first person takes a shower. Raymi begged for us to stay here for two nights, but it is outside of our budget at $80 a night, so we will move tomorrow to a hotel that is half the price, and likely doesn’t have all the comforts.

For now, however, we will enjoy the buffet breakfast full of juices, yogurt, fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, pancakes, and all sorts of luxuries we don’t usually have. After a good breakfast, we will make our way to Lake Titicaca, where we will do a tour of the islands on the highest navigable lake in the world.

Getting around Cusco – Sacsayhuaman, San Blas and the Historic Center

When we arrived in Cusco at our hotel – Casa de Mama 2 – we parked our rental car and relied on buses, taxis, and walking to get around. Cusco is a great city for walking around, and you can get most anywhere you’d want to go on your own. During our three days in Cusco, we were able to make our way to several places with minimal effort. Well, I got lost a couple of times, but it was easy to find my way again.

Raymi near Sacsayhuaman

We stayed at Casa de Mama 2 – run by a lovely, energetic woman named Mercedes. The hotel is a good 20-minute walk (or 3 sol cab ride) to the Plaza. The rooms are clean and comfortable; the showers are hot; and the price includes a breakfast of coffee, eggs, bread, butter, and jam. The hotel also has free wireless Internet. I had trouble getting a signal in my room, but there is a comfortable place in the small café where I could sit and get connected. While sitting there, Mercedes often chatted with me. As I am doing research on humor, I found it interesting when she told me that the Quechua people are also “bromistas” – people who like to make jokes. She said she and her siblings often joke in Quechua, even though they primarily speak Spanish to one another. She told me this story while talking about her brother who lives in Hungary. Her story made me wonder how joking varies culturally within Peru.

After chatting with Mercedes, we began to make our way around Cusco. One of my favorite places to visit in Cusco is Sacsayhuaman. It is fascinating both to admire the boulders and to ponder how and why the Incas carved these huge rocks and placed one on top of another. It remains a mystery how the Incas were able to move these extremely heavy rocks, especially without the use of wheels.

Ancient ruins at Sacsayhuaman

Relaxing at Sacsayhuaman

To get to Sacsayhuaman, you can take a taxi from the center of Cusco. The taxi we took cost 10 soles, and the driver took us up to the highest entrance. It is fairly easy to walk back down to the plaza, but the walk up can be strenuous. We walked around the ruins and then walked up to the Cristo Blanco, which affords a fantastic view of Cusco.

Tatiana at el Cristo Blanco

Afterwards, we walked down to the Plaza, where we chilled out and people-watched for a while. I was craving pollo a la brasa – Peruvian roasted chicken – for dinner, so I asked around for the best place to eat pollo a la brasa. Our taxi driver recommended El Tablon on Avenida del Sol, so we went there. The chicken was tasty, and they had a decent salad bar. I had a Cuzquena beer to go along with my chicken and my daughters had chicha morada – a drink made from purple corn and sweetened with sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and lime juice. The restaurant was just a block and a half from our hotel, so we walked home afterwards and relaxed before going to sleep.

Soraya and Tatiana in the Plaza de Armas, Cusco

My other favorite thing to do in Cusco is a horseback tour of the nearby ruins. While we were up at Sacsayhuaman, we found a young man – Raul – who agreed to rent us horses for 20 soles ($8) a person. We called him the next morning and met him at the Plaza and rode in the taxi up to his small ranch with him. He saddled up four horses for myself and my three daughters and we set out on our tour. Our horseback tour include Zona X which has several caves; the Temple of the Sun and the Moon; and Qenqo.

Raymi, Tanya, Tatiana, and Soraya on horseback 

Tatiana is a lot happier than she looks to be on horseback

Raymi at the Temple of the Moon

The girls were much more interested in riding horses than seeing the ruins, but we still got off at each stop and checked things out. At Zona X we looked at some of the caves; at the Temples of the Sun and the Moon, we sat in the ancient stone seats; and we looked around Quenqo.

We dismounted our horses in Qenqo. From there, you can either take a bus back to Cusco for one sol, or to the remaining nearby ruins for the same price. We inadvertently took the bus towards Puca Pucara – another ruins site. When we realized we weren’t on the bus back to Cusco, we decided to enjoy the ruins at Puca Pucara and then take the bus back to Cusco.

The bus takes you straight back to the Plaza, but, again, I missed our stop, and we went all the way to a neighborhood in the outskirts of Cusco called La Molina. Since we were there, we decided to get off the bus and enjoy a cheap lunch. We found a place that had lunch for S/3.50 – about US$2 and had soup and aji de gallina for lunch. It was reasonably tasty and definitely well-priced.

After lunch, we took a taxi to San Blas, a historic neighborhood close to the center. There are several artisans in the plaza at San Blas and Raymi began to chat with a woman who was weaving knit belts. She talked us into buying one, as Raymi’s jeans were falling down. Afterwards, Raymi took a picture with her and her daughter. The woman told me she was from Lares, but prefers to live in Cusco.

The Plazuela at San Blas

Raymi posing with the artisan woman from Lares

From there, we decided to have a treat at Pantastico – a bakery just next to the Plaza. We had a brownie and a passion fruit bread that had the texture of a muffin and was quite tasty. Pantastico also has a great view of the city.

From San Blas, it is easy to walk back down to the Plaza. There are lots of cool sights and shops along the way. We stopped in a couple of stores and looked around at all the colorful handicrafts. Before going back to our hotel, we decided to check out the new Artisan Market on Avenida del Sol. I pondered a number of items, but only purchased a colorful scarf and a set of place mats.

A unique fountain across from the Artisan Market on Avenida del Sol

After all that riding and walking around, we were tired and headed back to our hotel to relax.

The Sacred Valley of the Incas in Cusco, Peru – Well worth a visit on your own or with a guide

The Sacred Valley of the Incas in Cusco, Peru is a scenic valley where a river flows through mountain chains on either side. At various points along the valley, you can see the snow capped peaks of the two of the most sacred nevados of the region – Salkantay (20,574 feet), and Ausangate (20,900 feet). The Incas worshipped these mountain deities, called apukanas, as well as the sun and the moon. Today, especially when you get outside the urbanized areas, it becomes clear why the Incas called this place a Sacred Valley.

View of snow-capped peak on the way to Lares

The Sacred Valley of the Incas runs from Cusco to Aguas Calientes – the town at the base of Macchu Picchu. You can travel from Cusco to Ollantaytambo by car, but only trains go to Aguas Calientes. The Sacred Valley features imposing mountains on either side, and a rushing river – Rio Urubamba – in the center.

The route from Cusco to Ollantaytambo takes about 2 hours by car or bus. It is 45 minutes from Cusco to Pisac; 30 minutes from Pisac to Calca; 30 minutes from Calca to Urubamba; and 20 minutes from Urubamba to Ollantaytambo. You could easily see the whole valley in a day, but each town along the way is worth a stop, both for the town itself and for the daytrips. The road is well-served by public transportation, although most tourists use private cars or guides hired in Cusco. I highly recommend using public transportation, as it is the best way to see the people and traditions of the Valley with your own eyes.

The first stop in the Sacred Vally is Pisac, which has amazing ruins, a beautiful market, and is a great starting point for a trip up to Kinsa Cccocha. You can easily go up to the three lagoons of Kinsa Ccocha and back in a day – starting from either Pisac or Cusco.

Calca has the best Internet access of the Valley towns, outside of Cusco, and serves as a starting point for a trip up to Lares. Lares could be a day trip if you leave very early, but staying the night in Lares is also a good option. This is also a trip you can do on your own, or with a tour guide.

In Urubamba, it starts to get warmer, and is a nice place to spend a day relaxing. It also is the starting place for a visit to the Salineras de Maras – the salt mines. These salt mines are just 30 minutes from Urubamba.

Ollantaytambo is a beautiful ancient city, with Incan walls throughout the town, and hosts fascinating ruins. It is a small town that is a joy to walk around and is the base for people traveling to Macchu Picchu, via train or via the Inca Trail. Ollantaytambo is a quaint town with ruins as well as a historic center with traditional chicherias and restaurants.

The family at the entrance to the ruins at Ollantaytambo

Ancient streets in Ollantaytambo

Aguas Calientes is true to its name and has hot springs that are great for relaxing after hiking up to Macchu Picchu.

There is so much to see in the Peruvian Andes, and the Sacred Valley is right at the center of it all. If you are adventurous, speak some Spanish, and want a great experience, you can do it all by yourself – either with a rental car, taxis, colectivos (shared taxis), or buses. Needless to say, traveling around the Sacred Valley on public transportation will be much cheaper than using tour guides.

The Salt Mines of Maras in the Sacred Valley of the Incas

Did you know that some of the best salt in the world is produced in the middle of the Andes – hundreds of miles from any large body of salt water? I didn’t know until we visited the Salt Mines of Maras in the Sacred Valley, about 40 kilometers from Cusco, Peru.

Las Salineras de Maras

According to Wikipedia,

Since pre-Inca times, salt has been obtained in Maras by evaporating salty water from a local subterranean stream. The highly salty water emerges at a spring, a natural outlet of the underground stream. The flow is directed into an intricate system of tiny channels constructed so that the water runs gradually down onto the several hundred ancient terraced ponds. … It is agreed among local residents and pond "farmers" that the cooperative system was established during the time of the Incas, if not earlier. As water evaporates from the sun-warmed ponds, the water becomes supersaturated and salt precipitates as various size crystals onto the inner surfaces of a pond's earthen walls and on the pond's earthen floor. The pond's keeper then closes the water-feeder notch and allows the pond to go dry. Within a few days the keeper carefully scrapes the dry salt from the sides and bottom, puts it into a suitable vessel, reopens the water-supply notch, and carries away the salt.

The result is a visually interesting series of terraces of salt pools. It was a great trip for the kids, as you can walk all over the salt mines and explore the mines. It was also cool for the kids to be able to see how salt is produced and to learn that these salt mines have existed for centuries.

Many people go to the Salt Mines with a tour guide, but it is also possible to get there on your own. To get there, we drove from Calca to Urubamba, and then took the road towards Chincheros. We turned off the road at the clearly-indicated detour for Maras. The views along this road, like much of the Andes and the Sacred Valley, were spectacular.

View of snow-capped peak in the distance

As it was nearly noon when we arrived at the detour, we decided to stop in Maras for lunch before going to the salt mine, where there is only a tourist café and a few snacks.

The town of Maras is about two kilometers after the turn-off point for the Salt Mines. When we arrived in Maras, there was a festival going on with plenty of stalls selling chicharrones, fried trout, and fried chicken. We ordered a few plates of food and filled ourselves up on fried food before heading back towards the salt mines.

Frying fish and chicken in Maras

The road to the salt mines is a dirt road, but it is well-maintained and easy to drive on. The only issue is that it is practically a single-lane road, so you have to watch for cars and buses coming in the other direction. There are various points at which you can pull over to let them pass. After driving all over Peru on similar roads, we have become accustomed to driving like this.

Tatiana, Raymi, and Soraya posing by the side of the road

After about 20 minutes on this dirt road, we made it to the Salt Mines of Maras. We walked through the various gift shops and began to tour the salt mines. The kids went on their own adventure through the mine while I admired the view. It was fun for the kids to explore the mines on their own and check out the different colors and textures of the salt formations.

Tatiana, Raymi and Soraya at the Salt Mines

The kids - off to explore by themselves

Before leaving, we purchased a few bags of Peruvian Pink Salt as a souvenir.

After leaving the Salt Mines, we decided to keep driving to Cusco. It took about an hour to get to the edge of the city, and another 30 minutes to get through traffic to our hotel – Casa de Mama 2 – in Cusco.

From Calca to Lares – A scenic drive to the Eden of the Incas

On Wednesday morning around 8:30am, we set out from Calca to Lares in our rented Toyota Yaris. Our friends in Calca warned us not to eat to much before leaving, as we would be going from about 3,500 meters up to about 4,500 meters, and back down again. We had a light breakfast, and took snacks with us for the two-hour drive to Lares.

I was excited to go to Lares and relax in the hot springs, but had no idea the drive there would be so spectacular. There is public transportation to Lares – a small bus that runs once or twice a day – but we decided to drive as we knew the road was reasonably well-maintained, even though about 35 kilometers of it is unpaved.

Raymi and Soraya holding a lamb

We stopped frequently on the way up to avoid altitude sickness. Our first stop was at an overlook where we saw a herd of sheep. My children rushed to try and catch a lamb so that they could hold it. There was no one around to ask if that was okay, so I told them they could. As soon as they picked up a lamb, however, a little girl began to cry from a house up on a hill. Soon, two children rushed down. I asked the boy why the child was crying. At first he said he didn’t know. Then, he said it was because my kids had held her lamb. We apologized and left the kids tending to their herd of sheep.

The road was paved until we reached a turnoff point for Lares. The 30 kilometers along that road were filled with awesome scenery, but driving along a one-lane dirt road alongside a cliff was a harrowing experience. The views of animals, mountains, nevados, rivers, and boulders, however, made up for the tense drive.

Soon after turning off, we came upon a group of children who flagged us down. When we stopped, they asked us if we had any bread. Fortunately, we did, and we handed a piece of bread to each of the children. The children were aged between about 4 and 11, so I asked them if they went to school. It was a school day after all. One of the girls replied that there is no school close enough for them to attend. These children live in hamlets of one to ten houses, and it is true that we did not see a school in the 30 kilometer drive from the turn-off point to Lares. Their families seem to be mostly sheep, alpaca, goat, and llama herders. From that point to the Abra de Lares – the point at which you begin to descend the mountain – we saw several children who pulled us over to ask for bread. When we ran out of bread, we gave crackers to the kids.

Children by the side of the road asking for bread

Children from small villages along the way

For much of the way to Lares, we were able to see two snow-capped peaks – sitting majestically above golden and gray mountain peaks. We also saw plenty of animal herds, some of which were tended by people, and others of which seemed to be alone. There seemed to be more animals than people out here. Animals can live outside, eating the grass and drinking the plentiful water. Life seemed to bit a bit harder for the people, who live miles away from any stores and must travel far to sell their animal wool and other products. The Quechua people who live here make their own clothes and continue to dress in the traditional way.

A lagoon among the peaks

We stopped at the Abra to Lares to build a mound of stones - said to protect you on the journey

Cloud-soaked mountains

Raymi - happy to have made it to the top

About two and a half hours and many stops after leaving Calca, we made it to Lares, where we had a lunch of soup and fried fish in one of the restaurants near the Plaza. We stocked up with bread, fruit, and water, and got back in the car for the five-minute drive from the town of Lares to the hot springs.

After the long drive from Calca, we decided we would stay the night at the hot springs, and got a room in the hotel that belongs to the hot springs. The hot springs are community-built and owned, and the townspeople take turns working there. The hotel room was clean and comfortable, and reasonably priced at 50 soles ($20) a night. The room does not include entry to the hot springs, which is 10 soles ($4) for adults, and 4 soles for children.

Lares Hot Springs

The Springs are on beautiful grounds

We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the hot spring pools. The pools are brown in color because of the minerals, and range in temperature from very hot to quite cool. I first got in the very hot pool, as I was looking forward to experiencing some serious heat after being cold for much of the time we have spent in the Andes. Then, we spent some time relaxing in the largest pool, which is warm, but certainly not hot.

We ate dinner in a small restaurant run by a local man and his wife. They also have rooms for rent for a bit cheaper, but they don’t have electricity. For dinner, they made rice, fried bananas, and an omelet with eggs from their chickens. The next morning for breakfast, they slaughtered one of their hens to make chicken soup for us.

We went up to Lares with our friends from Calca – Doris, Jose, Isa, Fernando, and their daughter, Yari. At breakfast, I chatted with Isa and Fernando about my work on racism in Peru. Fernando owns a hotel in Cusco, and Isa, who makes clothing for a living, is from Cusco. They suggested I do a study that focuses on more specifically on racial discrimination in Cusco. That is an idea to think about, as, while doing some work here, I have noticed that things are changing in Cusco. Peru is experiencing economic growth, and it seems more indigenous people are prospering. Of course, there is still poverty, but it seems that increasing numbers of indigenous people are able to send their children to university and to purchase expensive homes and cars. It would be interesting to see how this plays out in terms of overcoming racial barriers, which, in Latin America, are closely intertwined with class status.

It is encouraging to return to Peru after several years and see that many people are doing better financially. These changes also raise many questions about what the future holds for Peru.

The drive back from Lares to Calca took less time, but still was filled with awesome scenery, beautiful people, and interesting sights.

Tatiana and Soraya on one of our breaks to check out the animals 

A woman tending her llamas near a stone house at 4000 meters above sea level

Quechua girl who lives in a small hamlet along the way

These Quechua children - who live high in the Andes - preserve their traditional dress

This boy, 11, told me he made his own poncho

Driving along this road was harrowing at some points