Kinsa Ccocha - Three Lagoons just outside of Pisac

On Thursday, we took a small expedition outside of Pisac to Kinsa Ccocha – a series of three large lagoons nestled in the Andean highlands. The lagoons are crater lakes – formed eons ago when there was volcanic activity in this part of Peru.

There is no regular public transportation to Kinsa Ccocha. However, there are cars and combis that will take you to the first lagoon. We found a combi that agreed to take seven of us up to Kinsa Ccocha for 50 soles ($20). On the way up, we decided that we also would want a ride back down, so he agreed to come back for us for an additional 50 soles. It is also possible to walk down, but we had gotten a late start and may not have made it back before nightfall. There is a hotel (hospedaje) in Kinsa Ccocha, but it was closed when we went and the villagers there told us it had been closed for a while. Thus, for now, it has to be a day trip.

We left Pisac around 10am, after making a stop in the convenience store for water, fruit, bread, nuts, and cheese. You have to go to Kinsa Ccocha prepared, as there are no stores in the small village next to Kinsa Ccocha. We arrived there around 10:30am, and were immediately greeted by villagers who wanted to sell us their handmade wares. We bought a few things and admired the first lagoon – Kinsa Ccocha, before beginning our walk towards the other two lagoons.

Kinsa Ccocha - the first lagoon

Child of women selling woven textiles

The walk to the second lagoon – Azul Ccocha – took about 20 minutes, if that. We sat down and had a snack before carrying on. While we were sitting, a 12-year old girl, Maribel, came over and offered to walk with us so that we wouldn’t get lost. It seemed like a good idea to have a guide, so we invited us to join us. The walk around the lake was gorgeous, with alpaca, llama, and sheep herds accompanying us along the way.

Azul Ccocha - the second lake

Llama herd!

Once we got around the lake and began to scale the mountain, however, the walk started to get strenuous. As we got higher up, there was less oxygen, and the walk was pretty much straight uphill. So, we stopped about every five minutes to catch our breath and enjoy the view. Just when I thought we might not make it, I caught a glimpse of a gorgeous turquoise lagoon.

Puma Ccocha - the third lagoon and the most sparkling of the three

We had made it to the third lagoon – Puma Ccocha. The lagoon was a clear turquoise and shined like a gem. There was a fierce wind that blew over the lagoon, however, so we decided to have our picnic a few feet away from the lake, inside a small crater where there was less wind.

Happy to have made it to the summit - Puma Ccocha

Around 1:30pm, we headed back down to where the combi was waiting for us. The walk down was less strenuous, but a bit shaky in places where the small rocks gave way. I was worried about falling, especially since my hands were so cold. Eventually, I put on my gloves and hat, which helped a bit. I did take a small fall. Nevertheless, the walk downhill was stunning, with views of the lagoon, huge boulders, and golden hills.

Local woman selling her textiles

When we returned to Kinsa Ccocha, one of the villagers had prepared watya for us. Watya is small potatoes cooked in an oven made right in the fields out of dirt and small sticks. In a watya, the potatoes cook in about 15 minutes. The watya included baby potatoes and chuno – potatoes that have been frozen. We tried the chuno, but none of us liked it. Chuno is definitely an acquired taste.

After our snack, we piled back into the combi and were back in Pisac before 4pm.