The drive from Cusco to Puno took us all day, with two stops along the way at Sicuani and the Hot Springs of Occobamba. We left Cusco at 9:45am and didn’t arrive in Puno until 6pm. It probably took us about six hours of driving.
The first part of the drive is in a valley along the Rio Vilcanota. This part of drive is flat – you stay at about 3000 meters above sea level for most of the way. The Vilcanota River affords a scenic view for most of the way.
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| Vilacanota River |
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| Going up towards the altiplano |
We stopped in Sicuani for lunch, to buy a few provisions, and to fill up our gas tank. The market in Sicuani is colorful, and we had a tasty lunch just across the street from the market with minestrone soup and a small piece of fried trout for S/3.50 – less than US$2. Although in Sicuani for just a short time, we left with the impression that it is a friendly place.
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| Fruit market at Sicuani |
Shortly after leaving Sicuani, we began to go up to higher elevation. About 15 minutes outside of Sicuani, we came upon a site with hot springs. None of us really wanted to get wet, as it was quite cold, but we stopped to have a look. I was intrigued by the sign “Smallest Volcano in the World,” and we paid the S/2 to get in and see it. The hot springs turned out to be quite nice and were full of local visitors, even on a Monday afternoon. The hot springs have a eucalyptus sauna, mud baths, hot springs showers, and communal and private hot tubs. Although tempted, we did not get in, but did have a look at the “volcano” as well as the bridge made of ropes.
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| The smallest volcano in the world |
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| Aguas Calientes de Occobamba - 15 km after Sicuani |
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| Enjoying the smallest volcano in the world |
The kids enjoyed watching the bubbling water come out of the volcano and sliding back down the rock sides. They also liked going over the rope bridge, which leads to a small tunnel on the other side. I decided to get on the bridge, after the girls there assured me that no one had ever fallen off. I have to admit I was pretty scared to cross, especially as it started to swing.
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| Tatiana in the tunnel on the other side of the rope bridge |
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| Bridge made of ropes at Occobamba |
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| Girls playing on rope bridge |
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| The girls enjoying the rope bridge |
After the hot springs, we drove on towards Juliaca. After passing the Abra la Raya at 4338 meters above sea level, we were clearly on the altiplano. The good thing about being on the altiplano is that the road is largely flat, with golden fields; snow-capped peaks; red, gray, and brown mountains; and huge blue skies all the way.
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| The road gets flat on the altiplano |
After driving and driving, we finally came to Juliaca, which is 40 kilometers from Puno. As it was getting late, we drove right through Juliaca, hoping to get to Puno before nightfall. It was a busy and colorful city, with plenty of moto taxis as well as bicycle taxis.
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| Juliaca at rush hour - bikes and carts everywhere |
When we finally made it to Puno, the sun had just set and we began to look for a hotel. The first two we checked were full, but we were able to get a room at the Plaza Mayor. It’s more expensive than the hotels we usually stay in, so were treated to the luxury of heating, carpet, and a for-real hot shower where the water doesn’t run out after the first person takes a shower. Raymi begged for us to stay here for two nights, but it is outside of our budget at $80 a night, so we will move tomorrow to a hotel that is half the price, and likely doesn’t have all the comforts.
For now, however, we will enjoy the buffet breakfast full of juices, yogurt, fresh fruit, scrambled eggs, pancakes, and all sorts of luxuries we don’t usually have. After a good breakfast, we will make our way to Lake Titicaca, where we will do a tour of the islands on the highest navigable lake in the world.
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